Anyone know how to make a sliding tablesaw jig?
#20
(02-13-2024, 04:40 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: Yep that was the plan leaving it on since any cutting can be done on it

This one looked really good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svji38dVOcg

Or this one

sliding table (youtube.com)

Nither one uses drawer slides.

Yes, the first one for the most part looks very well done. 

John
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#21
I looked at building one a while back with linear rails.

Between the cost time etc. I decided it was worth more to buy one from Harvey for my Sawstop.

After having it for a few months I’m not all that impressed.

It’s great when it’s setup square.
You have to take the miter fence completely off for most rip cuts, then putting it back on is time consuming as there isn’t really any indexing or alignment to get it square so it’s a process every time it goes back on.

There are some folks that have precision drilled alignment holes to help, but that’s a modification I’m not ready to do on an $1100 table.

I use my incra turned backwards to get it close enough but I would like a better more reliable method.
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#22
I've seen a few with the linear bearings and bars and they seemed the best way to go for a self build. I'm not sure how much cheaper it will be over buying though.  

Maybe you could find one of those sliding table attachments from an old Ryobi BT3000 saw and fit it to your table saw somehow. I had one of those saws for a while and the sliding table feature was the best thing about it. Plus they are not heavy being all aluminum so you don't have to worry about lifting it so much when you need to.  I would imagine one of these could be had on ebay relatively reasonably.

Edit.

Here is one for $50 plus shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256408359710?it...R6DGgNK1Yw
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#23
(02-13-2024, 04:46 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: I did not see a link to what the Jet one looked like.

Prob. cause the link is to a thread that is 21 years old !



Quote:plus I would like to have it closer to the blade.
You're prob. outa luck then..........the distance to the blade from any add on sliding table on a tablesaw is solely dependent on the with of the table to the left of the blade.   You ain't modifying that dimension.
No




I think your best bet is to buy a saw that already has a sliding table designed into it if that's what you really want or need. 


If your set on the endeavor , you might keep an eye out for one of these on the secondary market, but don't hold your breath.

https://www.mikestools.com/download/Delt...34-555.pdf
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#24
(02-16-2024, 07:01 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: Prob. cause the link is to a thread that is 21 years old !



You're prob. outa luck then..........the distance to the blade from any add on sliding table on a tablesaw is solely dependent on the with of the table to the left of the blade.   You ain't modifying that dimension.
No




I think your best bet is to buy a saw that already has a sliding table designed into it if that's what you really want or need. 


If your set on the endeavor , you might keep an eye out for one of these on the secondary market, but don't hold your breath.

https://www.mikestools.com/download/Delt...34-555.pdf

Yes.  The only way to get an aftermarket or self-build sliding table attachment to run next to the blade, like a true slider does, would be to have the table run over the top of the saw table.  Then you're left with the offcut falling onto the original saw table to the right of the blade, or adding a matching piece to the right side.  Of course, you'd have to remove all of it to use the rip fence.  There are no easy solutions.  

If you need/want a slider, buy a true slider.  The only reason I don't have one is because of space, which is the same problem faced by many.  That being the case, I use a sled.   

John
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#25
(02-16-2024, 07:01 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: Prob. cause the link is to a thread that is 21 years old !



You're prob. outa luck then..........the distance to the blade from any add on sliding table on a tablesaw is solely dependent on the with of the table to the left of the blade.   You ain't modifying that dimension.
No




I think your best bet is to buy a saw that already has a sliding table designed into it if that's what you really want or need. 


If your set on the endeavor , you might keep an eye out for one of these on the secondary market, but don't hold your breath.

https://www.mikestools.com/download/Delt...34-555.pdf

Thank you for the link it shown alot of how to's and gave me more ideas.  I am now sure I will make one now even if it takes me a year.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#26
Quote:If you need/want a slider, buy a true slider.  The only reason I don't have one is because of space, which is the same problem faced by many.  That being the case, I use a sled.  

Lots with the room but not the funds for a euro slider too.  

If in ya really need/want a slider and are short on space (funds) the previously mentioned BT3000 would seem ideal.  That sliding table comes within an inch and a half of the blade.


The new Festool jobsite saw is even more robust and capable plus has the safety tech baked in.   It's a lot more $$$ but cheaper and smaller than a euro slider , has the tech, and will maintain its value like no other tool you own.  Which will make it like a no cost rental.


https://www.festoolusa.com/products/sawi...s#Overview
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#27
(02-17-2024, 04:35 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: Lots with the room but not the funds for a euro slider too.  

If in ya really need/want a slider and are short on space (funds) the previously mentioned BT3000 would seem ideal.  That sliding table comes within an inch and a half of the blade.


The new Festool jobsite saw is even more robust and capable plus has the safety tech baked in.   It's a lot more $$$ but cheaper and smaller than a euro slider , has the tech, and will maintain its value like no other tool you own.  Which will make it like a no cost rental.


https://www.festoolusa.com/products/sawi...s#Overview

The BT3000 might be ok for miniature work, but not much more.  Same with the Festool.  Neither is in the same league as a real slider.  I guess it depends on your needs.  Wouldn't work for what I do.  

John
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#28
(02-17-2024, 07:27 PM)jteneyck Wrote: The BT3000 might be ok for miniature work, but not much more.  Same with the Festool.  Neither is in the same league as a real slider.  I guess it depends on your needs.  Wouldn't work for what I do.  

John

You're absolutely correct.

However, you brought up the lack of space constraint and the two saws I mentioned both have a small footprint that fit in any space that allows for woodworking in the first place.  They both have the sliding table function that Arlin is looking for.   Of course neither has a 9ft. stroke to allow for processing sheet goods efficiently on a regular basis - but neither does any of the other bolt on solutions mentioned or offered with today's cabinet saws either.  

If you need a slider , you need it.  Along with the shop space and budget to go along with it.
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