Made some router dust today.Oops!

[MstrCarpenter]

I needed to mill a 1" roundover on some molding with a big old Makita plunge router dedicated to a R.T. station. One handy improvement it got years ago was replacing the aux. switch box with a 4" box extension. There's a switch on the front and a switch and a (split) duplex receptacle on the back. In addition to allowing me to use the vac without the router, it also lets me turn off the power to the router with 3 separate switches. To stay safe, I make a conscious effort to make sure all 3 are off before changing bits. I don't think I can accidently turn on all 3. What I can do is fight to get the right bit height when the plunge function is sticking. Then I turn on all 3 switches and it's loud! Much louder than normal. (Picture this) I jump back, drop to the floor, and crawl back and hit the main switch. When the noise stopped, I stood up to see a bunch of shinny sh** on the table. Seems the plunge function works well with a little vibration added. Note to self; engage the depth lock when you finally get the right bit height. I guess I can manage without template guides on this router.

[jteneyck]

I needed to mill a 1" roundover on some molding with a big old Makita plunge router dedicated to a R.T. station. One handy improvement it got years ago was replacing the aux. switch box with a 4" box extension. There's a switch on the front and a switch and a (split) duplex receptacle on the back. In addition to allowing me to use the vac without the router, it also lets me turn off the power to the router with 3 separate switches. To stay safe, I make a conscious effort to make sure all 3 are off before changing bits. I don't think I can accidently turn on all 3. What I can do is fight to get the right bit height when the plunge function is sticking. Then I turn on all 3 switches and it's loud! Much louder than normal. (Picture this) I jump back, drop to the floor, and crawl back and hit the main switch. When the noise stopped, I stood up to see a bunch of shinny sh** on the table. Seems the plunge function works well with a little vibration added. Note to self; engage the depth lock when you finally get the right bit height. I guess I can manage without template guides on this router.

Glad all that got damaged was a bit.  Do router lifts lock automatically?  I have no clue since I've always used a fixed base router in my router table, but you have to remember to lock it, too.     

John

[MstrCarpenter]

I'm not sure if they lock, but would assume they do. I have a lift but it's way too small for my P.C. 7518. My R.T. is just a piece of 3/8" aluminum plate with that Makita plunge mounted to the bottom.
B.T.W., that bit still made the cut I needed after I regained some composure. I don't remember ever being that scared by a piece of machinery or equipment.

[Stwood_]

So you were cutting aluminum, unintentionally. Probably a diamond file will touch it back up.

[pprobus]

So you were cutting aluminum . Probably a diamond file will touch it back up.

To the OP:

If you're going to round over aluminum, a router's not the right tool. You need a milling machine.

[MstrCarpenter]

To the OP:

If you're going to round over aluminum, a router's not the right tool. You need a milling machine.

Well it just so happens that I do have a Bridgeport milling machine! Think that'll run a 1" roundover bit?

I've got a 12 x24 bay that's in the process of becoming a "clean room" where it will be set up. I also have to make a new rotary phase converter before I can try out that router bit on it.

[pprobus]

Well it just so happens that I do have a Bridgeport milling machine! Think that'll run a 1" roundover bit?

I've got a 12 x24 bay that's in the process of becoming a "clean room" where it will be set up. I also have to make a new rotary phase converter before I can try out that router bit on it.

Nice!
 I have my dad's '80's vintage round column Mill/Drill. Not the most desirable milling machine, but it takes some surprisingly heavy cuts. At least compared to my granddad's '40's vintage Craftsman metal lathe which its lack of rigidity makes parting off pretty much like a mystery movie (will it actually part off nice or will something break? Stay tuned. 
 ). 

And to bring this full circle, since roundover endmills are expensive, I have seriously thought about trying some of my cheaper carbide round over bits on metal, slowing the rpm and feed rate (which is hard to judge anyway since I don't have any feed drives on the mill).

[Bob Vaughan]

I'll often use my Sharp HMV mill to achieve fussy little details in wood.  I've got to be rather fussy about cleanup and dust collection.
I've often used woodworking router bits and don't run them at full speed at all.  The rigidity of the system is plenty good to hold things together.
With a adjustable boring head and a ground cutter, the mill is capable of boring all kinds of special size holes.

For running moulding, a shaper or router is best, no question.

   

   

   

[MstrCarpenter]

Well I'm no Machinist, but talking with a retired one from Sig Sauer (I'm guessing their work is more precise than I'll ever need.), He suggested I start with all 3 DRO's so I won't have to worry so much about backlash. The next improvement will be at least one power feed.