Three different ways to sharpen your tools

[Timberwolf]

This is the best video I have found to visually demonstrate how to get the sharpest edges in the least amount of time. From Scary Sharp to Power Sharp...Power sharpening starts at about 16 minutes in...Just because Roger is a talented, prize-winning wood carver and sharpens carving tools, doesn't mean that his tools and methods can't be used to sharpen just about anything with an edge on it....just change the technique a bit and Bob's your uncle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYQAN9nriM4

[Steve Hamlin]

Have to admit I was waiting for the catch when he was going below the center line on the buffer - I know I'd need a stab vest lol.
One suggestion for scary sharp I'd give. With the very low angle he was sharpening at it may not apply, but for the normal 20°-30° we might be grinding planes and chisels I'd suggest using belt sander loading for coarse grits (60 up to 150) as wet'n'dry is very friable in these grits, so will very easily further dub the edge you're trying to reshape.

[Timberwolf]

Have to admit I was waiting for the catch when he was going below the center line on the buffer - I know I'd need a stab vest lol.
One suggestion for scary sharp I'd give. With the very low angle he was sharpening at it may not apply, but for the normal 20°-30° we might be grinding planes and chisels I'd suggest using belt sander loading for coarse grits (60 up to 150) as wet'n'dry is very friable in these grits, so will very easily further dub the edge you're trying to reshape.

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I was concerned about that also!!!!! He holds his blades almost parallel to the wheel! I don't!!!!!!..I think that way could be dangerous.. I hold mine at 90* to the wheel and move it right to left...always trailing the edge....Stubbing it and causing it to "catch" is something you will never forget...IF you survive!!


I completely agree with you regarding the friability of the abrasive sheets. I can see them becoming so "soft" from the water that they "could" cause the very aris to "round over" microscopicly...if too much downward pressure was used..

[bandit571]

Unicorn Buffer:  Edge is ALWAYS pointed down, away from the rotation of the wheel...you are working from the "top" of the bevel to the edge..wheel is always turning AWAY from the edge.  If one is dumb enough to go the other direction...they soon find out it don't work that way..

Plus, how hard one "stabs" into the wheel....you are there to "Buff" things out..NOT a Grinder...let the wheel do the work, just stand there and hold the tool in place, no pushing into the wheel is ever needed...

BTW:  I also buff the flat back...

IF you are in THAT big of a hurry that you are stabbing the wheel like a grinder....go and sit down and take a break....

[Timberwolf]

Unicorn Buffer:  Edge is ALWAYS pointed down, away from the rotation of the wheel...you are working from the "top" of the bevel to the edge..wheel is always turning AWAY from the edge.  If one is dumb enough to go the other direction...they soon find out it don't work that way..

Plus, how hard one "stabs" into the wheel....you are there to "Buff" things out..NOT a Grinder...let the wheel do the work, just stand there and hold the tool in place, no pushing into the wheel is ever needed...

BTW:  I also buff the flat back...

IF you are in THAT big of a hurry that you are stabbing the wheel like a grinder....go and sit down and take a break....

.............

BTW:  I also buff the flat back...

High up on the back is where I start my buffing...After a few seconds on the back, I tilt the back of the blade upwards which directs the edge towards the wheel...light pressure is all that is needed,...

EDit.....
Here are some of the many compounds I use