Trouble Squaring Grizz 1023 to Blade

[David Stone]

I’m having problems. I have a Grizz 1023, about 20 years old. I used a Woodpecker saw gauge, and it shows that the back of the blade is 3/1000’’ farther from the miter slot than the front. That seems acceptable. If I try to loosen the top of my saw, I’m pretty sure i’ll make it worse.

I just set up an Incra Miter 5000 on the saw. I did a 5 cut test on some ply that started about 12’’ square. After the last cut, the back of the piece was .9545’’ and the front was .9245. That’s 3/100’’ out of whack? Is that acceptable?

But then I tried to square up a panel for some cabinets I’m building. They started 24’’ x 42’’. I put one long edge against the miter fence and just clean cut one short edge. The flipped it over, keeping the same edge on the fence and cut it to 41’’. What I got was a panel that was 41’’ on the near side, but 40 7/16’’ on the far side. That seems to be quite a bit more error.

Any suggestions for what I need to adjust? I thought the Incra was supposed to be square right out of the box.

[fredhargis]

I Wouldn't assume it's dead nuts out of the box. Here's a quote from the manual:
"Just remember that the accuracy of the INCRA Miter5000 at any
subsequent setting
is dependent upon
the accuracy of
your initial 90°
calibration. After
completing the
“Calibration” and
“Operation” sections
of this manual,
verify this important
calibration with a test
cut and fine-tune as
necessary."


I'm not sure it's your problem but if the saw is only off .003 (which is plenty good in my opinion) I'd sure challenge the miter sled.

[Ridgeway]

I Wouldn't assume it's dead nuts out of the box. Here's a quote from the manual:
"Just remember that the accuracy of the INCRA Miter5000 at any
subsequent setting
is dependent upon
the accuracy of
your initial 90°
calibration. After
completing the
“Calibration” and
“Operation” sections
of this manual,
verify this important
calibration with a test
cut and fine-tune as
necessary."


I'm not sure it's your problem but if the saw is only off .003 (which is plenty good in my opinion) I'd sure challenge the miter sled.

Yeah.  Also, if the blade is non-parallel the miter slot, that shouldn't result in out-of-square cuts.  Rather, is should result in a kerf slightly wider than the blade (usually 1/8"), less smooth cutting and potentially some burning.

[David Stone]

Thanks, everyone. I think I’ve figured it out.

[fredhargis]

What did you find? Just curious.