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I have a (new construction) 24 x 24 2 car attached garage.
2 x 6 walls R19 and 1/2' sheetrock on outside walls.
Will have same on 9' 6' ceiling. Currently open to rafters.
Have bottled gas and forced hot air/ central a/c in house.
Located in north central MA.
What type of heating would you put in this garage?
Mini split?
Modine Hot dawg heater?
Electric?
What would/have you done and why?
Looking to keep it warm enough all winter to avoid rusty tools and able to heat it up reasonably quick for a day/evening of woodworking.
Don't confuse the promptness of the replies here with accuracy. Badwhiskey 08/23/09
Thank God Annie takes after her Mom. barnowl 04-11-11
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What kind of garage door do you have? You'd be surprised how much a well insulated door with no windows helps to keep the cold out. We live in central PA and the garage on the coldest days may only get down to just below 50. I believe the doors we had installed were from a local manufacturer and rated at R-23.
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Location: Wapakoneta, OH
08-25-2024, 05:29 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-25-2024, 05:30 AM by fredhargis.)
In my detached shop I went with a ceiling hung gas fired furnace (Modine type). While that has it's downsides (fan is noisy, air movement can be a problem) it warms the place (32x30x10 with a 9'x 7' OH door) up very quickly, is fairly reasonable cost fuel wise (even on LP), and on the coldest days still does a nice job keeping the shop at 50°. Hanging from the ceiling keeps it out of the way. It just strikes me as the best choice (for me) when i considered all the alternatives. I'm in NW Ohio and we can have some very cold days and stiff winds.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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I have good fitting, well sealed overhead doors. Don't know the R value, but will look into it.
My previous garage shop had a Modine gas heater hanging up out the way. I agree with the noisy /air movement downside.
One of the reasons for looking at alternatives. Also, need to hire a gasfitter and permit for that route.
Don't confuse the promptness of the replies here with accuracy. Badwhiskey 08/23/09
Thank God Annie takes after her Mom. barnowl 04-11-11
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(08-24-2024, 04:02 PM)Cape Cod Wrote: I have a (new construction) 24 x 24 2 car attached garage.
2 x 6 walls R19 and 1/2' sheetrock on outside walls.
Will have same on 9' 6' ceiling. Currently open to rafters.
Have bottled gas and forced hot air/ central a/c in house.
Located in north central MA.
What type of heating would you put in this garage?
Mini split?
Modine Hot dawg heater?
Electric?
What would/have you done and why?
Looking to keep it warm enough all winter to avoid rusty tools and able to heat it up reasonably quick for a day/evening of woodworking.
I use a 4000 watt heater, 230, 20 amps let it heat up for 20 or so minutes works just fine
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A little bit if truth here, if it hadn't been for the cost of a mini split, I may well have went with one of them. At the moment I use a window AC to cool the shop in the summer but a mini split would have handled heating and cooling. It was only the cost that kept me away from them. If you think you'll need AC, it would not be a bad choice. But you would also (probably) have to hire out the wiring...might be as much as a fitter (?).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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I can do wiring. Gas hookup.... not so much.
Don't confuse the promptness of the replies here with accuracy. Badwhiskey 08/23/09
Thank God Annie takes after her Mom. barnowl 04-11-11
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Down on the cape, a heat pump mini split will fit your needs for most of the year. (Go for energy star to get all your rebates and tax credits.) R-19 on the ceiling is where I would be concerned. If I already have it, I would install it then add blown in on top. Rafter vents (Proper-Vent, insulation chutes, ect.) and ridge vents are needed as any heat above the insulation is no longer needed or wanted. The next (actually first) place to save energy costs is air leaks. If there is air movement, R-value means nothing.Some heat pump mini's will have elect. heat back-up. Or you could do propane via a wall mount, or portable, like a job site heater, if your AHJ or F.D. frowns upon gas heaters in a garage. If you insulate well and seal all the air leaks you won't need back-up often.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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How cold do you get in winter? If you’re looking at 20-30f winter days/nights, and the place is well insulated, a mini split might be good as it can take care of AC/dehumidification too. I’m not sure how fast it’d heat a place if you kept it say 45-50F and walked in wanting 65F. But with the Bluetooth stuff out there you could start warming the place before you rolled out of bed.
Matt
If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
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08-26-2024, 08:54 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-26-2024, 08:55 AM by vernonator.)
We put an Amana PTAC heat pump (similar to what's in many hotels) in both the garage and my shop with our new build. HVAC supplier was not a fan of mini-splits, stated they were their #1 callback item. They have worked very well, kept the oversized 2 car garage at 45 last winter (we are in central IA) with no problem. The shop unit heats/cools my 25x30 shop easily and once to temp does not run very often. We put 2x6 walls and R20 in the garage/shop area for reference.
