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Thanks! Yah we usually pull the little drawer out while brewing. The shelf above has seen steam a few times at this point I’m sure, but so far that factory pre finish on the plywood doesn’t seem to be phased by it (yet!)
LOL the LEDs have been a hit, I admit it’s a bit gratuitous!
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That's a great looking space. You did quite well.
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12-06-2023, 08:35 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-06-2023, 08:37 AM by Snipe Hunter.)
If it ain't too late... A little hint. When you grout don't grout the countertop/backsplash joint. Caulk it. Grout will crack and fairly soon. Hopefully, you have a little gap between the backsplash and countertop to allow for movement. The caulk can bridge the gap. And don't buy the grout in the paint department at the big box stores, The best they have isn't pliable enough. Buy the stuff in the tile department. It ain't cheap but it's worth every penny. Home Depot has a very good one in several colors. I also use this in tubs and showers.
Custom Commercial #3 Caulk
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(12-06-2023, 08:35 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: If it ain't too late... A little hint. When you grout don't grout the countertop/backsplash joint. Caulk it. Grout will crack and fairly soon. Hopefully, you have a little gap between the backsplash and countertop to allow for movement. The caulk can bridge the gap. And don't buy the grout in the paint department at the big box stores, The best they have isn't pliable enough. Buy the stuff in the tile department. It ain't cheap but it's worth every penny. Home Depot has a very good one in several colors. I also use this in tubs and showers.
Custom Commercial #3 Caulk
Yup! I made those gaps equal to the tile spacing and plan to get the color matched caulk from the tile store once we settle on a color. Same with where the tile meets the wood along the uppers.
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(12-06-2023, 08:51 AM)mound Wrote: Yup! I made those gaps equal to the tile spacing and plan to get the color matched caulk from the tile store once we settle on a color. Same with where the tile meets the wood along the uppers.
Good deal. Knowing better, I used the paint department caulk in my kitchen 3 years ago. I had it and it matched up well. Like I said, I knew better. The 1st winter, it all cracked. Been waiting for a cool spell to remove and replace it. I'll be doing that probably today or tomorrow. It's cold and the cracks have opened. I wanted to do this when the gap is the widest... like now.
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BTW, I like the way you did subway tile without doing subway tile. The 1/4 tile offset you did (to me) looks much nicer than half lapping the next course. So tired of subway tile. Always reminds me of a high school locker room.
The kitchen looks great.
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12-06-2023, 10:54 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-06-2023, 10:55 AM by mound.)
(12-06-2023, 10:18 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: BTW, I like the way you did subway tile without doing subway tile. The 1/4 tile offset you did (to me) looks much nicer than half lapping the next course. So tired of subway tile. Always reminds me of a high school locker room.
The kitchen looks great.
Thanks! Yah, I mulled over that decision for a while, the 50/50 overlap just looked too bricky and generic, so I settled on the 75/25 overlap and centered it in the field (especially visible over the wet-bar area) so as to not end up with small cuts at each side.
I like that "subway tile without doing subway tile"
Kinda like I made an "appliance garage that doesn't look like an appliance garage"
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No update to announce, just keeping the thread alive because I'm hoping somebody knows if there's a way to can print the entire thread, including all the images I posted, to a PDF so that I don't lose it when this thread eventually gets deleted?
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From a desktop mode, try sending it to your printer and select the print to PDF option if you have it.
From my phone, I can send the thread to a printer but I don’t have the PDF option.
Gary
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