Posts: 11,650
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2014
Location: South Central Oklahoma
Interesting anecdote about the little plane....
I tell people that if my shop was suddenly engulfed in flames and I could only grab one tool, I would grab that little plane. You can tell how sharp it is by the fine shavings it took, but still, it's a fifty year old Craftsman plane, worth maybe $20, or perhaps $5. To me? Priceless. The shop has tens of thousands of dollars in tools and equipment, yet I'd choose that plane?
It belonged to my Stepfather. He ran a small contracting company and never had to advertise. He was known for his quality work, as a perfectionist, and always had customers waiting in the aisles for the next opening for Additions, garages, or remodels. Honor and integrity were his buzzwords. he taught me to love woodworking and carpentry. That little plane was his, and rode in his personal toolbox or his apron. We weren't allowed to touch it. When he passed, I got the plane, hammer, square and a few other tools along with the box he built and used.
If they told me I could take TWO tools, I'd add his hammer.
When I use that little plane, I sometimes think I feel his hand on my shoulder.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Posts: 11,650
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2014
Location: South Central Oklahoma
I solved the issue, and got to work on the cleats. I decided to use longer screws along the top edge, where they would go into the vertically mounted sides. No chance of contact with the leather. These would need a larger bit and deeper pilot hole. Layout was key and very carefully I laid out the hole positions and marked the larger and deeper holes in red. There would now be two size holes with two depths to drill.
Carefully, considering each move before making it, I spread glue where I had it marked to go, and starting with the larger screws and 2" depths, I drilled and screwed until that task was complete. Once done, I moved onto the smaller 1-1/4" depth and slightly smaller shaft thickness and drilled and screwed those holes. Done...
Now it's time to let the glue cure overnight.
Tomorrow, I'll cut the molding so it will be ready to attach once the case it hung, and stain it as well.
Wax the case and the molding both.
The Cleats will get set on the wall
and the wiring will get organized on the back of the case.
Finally, the case will be hung and the molding attached.
We will be done.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Posts: 2,073
Threads: 1
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Mechanicsville, Md
Great job. I enjoy reading these build along threads, it proves that there are more than one way to complete a task. I've spent 40 years in a woodworking career, mostly museum work. My ay of thinking is based on those years of training. I learn a lot from you guys here, you are all master craftsmen in my book.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
Posts: 11,650
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2014
Location: South Central Oklahoma
(10-19-2024, 09:16 AM)museumguy Wrote: Great job. I enjoy reading these build along threads, it proves that there are more than one way to complete a task. I've spent 40 years in a woodworking career, mostly museum work. My ay of thinking is based on those years of training. I learn a lot from you guys here, you are all master craftsmen in my book.
This is true. I still learn new tricks every day from the various forums. I keep an open mind and new techniques appear.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Posts: 11,650
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2014
Location: South Central Oklahoma
Got out this morning after breakfast and got at it. I got the wiring done, organized and snugged down for mounting. Got the molding cut and stained, ready to go up on the case after it's mounted. Had to take a long break, too much standing, and my back and leg are letting me know. Should be able to mount the case this afternoon. But, before I left the shop I performed a lighting test. I thought it was awesome. Um... that was ME, so I thought I'd share the result.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Posts: 1,127
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2004
I am constantly amazed by the skill level of the woodworkers in this forum. One thing I have learned from them is to not get in a hurry and don’t work if you are tired.
Posts: 9,982
Threads: 1
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Texas
Looks great, Jim, well done!
Why aren't you interested in selling your knives? They look great as well!
...Naval Aviators, that had balz made of brass and the size of bowling balls, getting shot off the deck at night, in heavy seas, hoping that when they leave the deck that the ship is pointed towards the sky and not the water.
AD1 T. O. Cronkhite
Posts: 11,650
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2014
Location: South Central Oklahoma
(10-20-2024, 03:40 PM)Martin S. Wrote: Looks great, Jim, well done!
Why aren't you interested in selling your knives? They look great as well!
I don't do facebook, not interested in Etsy, and local sales wouldn't produce sales in the price points I'd have to charge. I could throw together knives in the $100 to $150 range pretty quickly, but they wouldn't please me in the shop. I prefer to make the knives where I shape the Bolsters and endcaps, guards and inlays from Barstock and raw materials.... This ends up with thirty and forty hours labor. I also buy quality blade blanks from a knife supply rather than cheap blanks from ebay. I am very happy with the knives I make... they aren't Professional Quality from a known knifemaker with price tags in the Thousands.
 But, in the end, without labor costs, I have anywhere from $200 and up in the materials. Add labor and we are talking $450 on up for the knives. I have been giving them as gifts to friends and family. These two, if I sold them, have Thirty hours of labor at least, with all the hand fitting and polishing... and that's REAL Turquoise from the mine in AZ.
The pin in the endcap as an accent, I made from crushed turquoise and copper bits, to see if I could. This one is not perfect, but I like it.
This Damascus one is another with more than thirty hours of labor involved. Note that the pins in the Nickel Silver Bolster and Endcap are Dog Paws. The Scales are CocoBolo. I really like this one as well.
The bootknife Tina claimed. That's Rhino Horn and custom copper accents. The sheath I made as well.
Tina tried to sell a couple of my custom boxes at a craft show where she was selling quilts and natural lye soaps. Solid spalted Maple, Burled Oak, Curly Cherry. I had them underpriced according to a Cabinet Maker who came thru and looked at the work. She got a couple offers. $35, $50. (They were priced at $125, $150) He told her I'd need to sell in OKC or Ardmore to get fair value.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Posts: 11,650
Threads: 1
Joined: May 2014
Location: South Central Oklahoma
Moved the table out and took down the picture, cleared the wall and marked the eyeline. Measured up 8" from that, and down. Careful measurement of the back of the display case let me mark the height of the top cleat on the wall. Using a level, I marked a reference line for it's installation. Using a stud finder, I marked the position of the studs in the wall, and holding the cleat up, I transferred the info onto the cleat. I took my time, and double checked the work. I did the same with the two lower (one foot) cleats, marking the location of the stud that fell on the right hand cleat, and the lack of studs on the left hand cleat.
I took the cleats to the shop, and using the 6' metal ruler, laid out the location of the holes to be countersunk and drilled, and CAREFULLY determined which would be into studs. THOSE didn't need countersunk due to screw type. Got the countersink done, then drilled thru them all.
The cleats HAVE to sit flush against the wall, so I cleaned up the slight blowout on the back. I could have avoided blowout with a scrap backer, but I wasn't worried about the looks. :twisted:
Okay, here we go, time to get 'er done. I used two screws in the studs to temporarily mount the cleat, then an awl to mark ALL the hole locations. Took the cleat back down and set the wall anchors where needed. THEN put the cleat back in place and mounted it. Worked as planned, she's up there.
With the case hanging on the cleat, I could slip both the bottom cleats in, and mark their location from the side, then take it all down and mark the holes for mounting, and repeat the process. All the cleats got screwed in place and we are solid. Looks good. I added the trim to hide the cleats.
A closer look...
The project is done, the book is closed. Time for a nap.
I am really happy with the way it came together.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
Posts: 2,383
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Irving, Tx
Very nice young man.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
|
