Hardwood options in large master bath

[sleepy hollow]

Wet hardwood floor is slippery

It can be.  Tile is the same.  The coefficient of friction for many popular bathroom tiles is not good (i.e., low), BTW.  Hardwood, like tile, that has texture, like brushed matte sheens, will have a higher COF.  Nevertheless, water is an excellent lubricant and care should always be taken in wet floors no matter what the composition.  Also non-slip rugs can help.  I would expect to have one or more rugs in this room even if only to attentuate sound.  

A fully tiled or hardwood floor will also tend to be loud without some sound dampening on the floor and walls.

[sleepy hollow]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I was wondering how long it would take for this post to appear. ...

This is a great discussion, and I very much appreciate the advice and opininos.  

One thing that occurs to me is that you all may not appreciate how large and tall this room is for a bathroom.  Most bathrooms just are not like this one and so it is hard to imagine why anything else but tile would be appropriate.  Maybe I am wrong, but I invite you to look at the measurements in the drawing and imagine a 12 foot cathedral ceiling besides.  Its is a small barn.  It has five rooms in it (counting the shower). 

As for using cement board, I tend to use Schluter products and have used their DITRA menbranes on several projects elsewhere in the house, including on this same level when I expanded and remodeled the children's/guest bath down the hall.  Frankly, I cannot recall, but when I researched it many years ago, I am pretty sure cement board was for flatness and water stability, not structure.  But I could be wrong.  I studied all the TCA specs and standards and, at the time, only DITRA met the specs for tile to substrate decoupling needed to handle the flex.  

Anyway, I honestly and sincerely appreciate all the thoughts and discussion points provided and fro the time you all have taken to express them.    

We have a lot to think about and consider as we review the approach to the flooring.

[Tapper]

This is a great discussion, and I very much appreciate the advice and opininos.  

One thing that occurs to me is that you all may not appreciate how large and tall this room is for a bathroom.  Most bathrooms just are not like this one and so it is hard to imagine why anything else but tile would be appropriate.  Maybe I am wrong, but I invite you to look at the measurements in the drawing and imagine a 12 foot cathedral ceiling besides.  Its is a small barn.  It has five rooms in it (counting the shower). 

As for using cement board, I tend to use Schluter products and have used their DITRA menbranes on several projects elsewhere in the house, including on this same level when I expanded and remodeled the children's/guest bath down the hall.  Frankly, I cannot recall, but when I researched it many years ago, I am pretty sure cement board was for flatness and water stability, not structure.  But I could be wrong.  I studied all the TCA specs and standards and, at the time, only DITRA met the specs for tile to substrate decoupling needed to handle the flex.  

Anyway, I honestly and sincerely appreciate all the thoughts and discussion points provided and fro the time you all have taken to express them.    

We have a lot to think about and consider as we review the approach to the flooring.

You seem to be a reasonable person and I admire your comments relative to advice and opinions here. In the past I've found many participants have vast knowledge on various topics and are willing to share it.

Here is a chart on Durock. You can draw your own conclusions as to its structural integrity. As I mentioned earlier I've used it extensively in the past with excellent results. Two full baths and a powder room in our home have it with tile installed with Thinset. No cracks after 15 or so years - installed it all myself. 

Having said that, rest assured I'm all for getting what you want. If you and your wife prefer hardwood flooring in your master bath, I say "go for it." Maybe think about a tile or other hard surface material right outside the shower where water may be a problem. 

Good luck!

Doug

[JosephP]

....
Having said that, rest assured I'm all for getting what you want. If you and your wife prefer hardwood flooring in your master bath, I say "go for it." Maybe think about a tile or other hard surface material right outside the shower where water may be a problem. 

Good luck!

Doug

A) I didn't know cement board added has that much stiffness flexural strength .  Good to know 
B) I agree, more tile outside of shower.  He has one row in the diagram...I'd probably go "south" in the drawing all the way to the wall so tile is also by the sinks.  Transition to hardwood for the "east" half of the space.
C) FWIW, also like your earlier comment about probably not getting value of hardwood at resale.  I suspect most would want to switch that out so it's more of a liability at resale.  However, if they'll be there for a while, and like hardwood, do hardwood and enjoy it!!

[Cabinet Monkey]

A) I didn't know cement board added that much stiffness.  Good to know 
B) I agree, more tile outside of shower.  He has one row in the diagram...I'd probably go "south" in the drawing all the way to the wall so tile is also by the sinks.  Transition to hardwood for the "east" half of the space.
C) FWIW, also like your earlier comment about probably not getting value of hardwood at resale.  I suspect most would want to switch that out so it's more of a liability at resale.  However, if they'll be there for a while, and like hardwood, do hardwood and enjoy it!!

Cement board offers little “stiffness” in a floor assembly. 

If your floor framing is not sufficiently “stiff” enough to support tile  , then Durock or other cement board IS NOT going to do anything to solve that.

[JosephP]

I'll edit my wording... I didn't know it has that much "flexural strength". I'm not going to argue one way or another...I just looked at the links Doug posted from the manufacturer - who I assume had materials 3rd party tested.

[Cabinet Monkey]

“Flexural strength” is an oxymoron at best. 

Cement backer board has it’s purpose ,  namely to provide a quick inexpensive surface to mount tile too.  It replaced the need for a “mud bed” which required lots of time plus lots of heavy material and a skilled/experienced person (2really) in order to install it.  Backer board eliminated a lot of weight, time and labor. 

Like the mud bed before it, backerboard’s time has come and gone since the perfection of lightweight uncoupling membranes and wall boards.

[Tapper]

“Flexural strength” is an oxymoron at best. 

Cement backer board has it’s purpose ,  namely to provide a quick inexpensive surface to mount tile too.  It replaced the need for a “mud bed” which required lots of time plus lots of heavy material and a skilled/experienced person (2really) in order to install it.  Backer board eliminated a lot of weight, time and labor. 

Like the mud bed before it, backerboard’s time has come and gone since the perfection of lightweight uncoupling membranes and wall boards.

As I mentioned earlier, haven't done a tile job in some time now, however a quick search says that Durock is still widely used and sold at many outlets. This article may shed some light on the subject, especially the part about it adding strength to a floor or wall system - YMMV.

[Cabinet Monkey]

As I mentioned earlier, haven't done a tile job in some time now, however a quick search says that Durock is still widely used and sold at many outlets. This article may shed some light on the subject, especially the part about it adding strength to a floor or wall system - YMMV.

1. So what ? Lots of stuff is sold in lots of places.

2. That’s not an “article” it’s marketing material & specification sheets / install guides. In which this nugget is embedded :

 Floor applications: Maximum joist spacing 24 in. (610 mm) o.c. The subfloor system should be designed with a minimum deflection limit of L/360 for the span. Some finish materials may require a more rigid subassembly (such as large format tile and natural stone products). In these cases, follow the manufacturer’s minimum requirements. The subfloor should be APA Span-Rated Plywood or OSB with an Exposure 1 classification or better with tongue and groove or back blocked at the unsupported edges.

Translated - this stuff doesn’t not add any strength to an assembly.



Use what you prefer , but stop telling people (or hinting) that cement board adds strength to a wall or floor. 

[oscarMadison]

has anyone tried Ipe hardwood flooring in a bath? Wonder how that would do?

Just a general thought I want my bathroom to look good but function and longevity are my primary concern. Compared to other rooms you just don't spend that much time in there and the potential of water damage is higher than most other rooms.