Lock miter router bit?

[JDuke]

I have had a lock miter router bit in a drawer for years and never used it.

Yesterday I had a box project that I decided to try it on.

The box would require the locking miter bit to cut end grain as the box is only 2.75 inches deep and about 12.75 inches long and just over 6 5/8 front to back.

I tried the bit on some scrap and it seems that holding a piece that’s 12.75 tall and 2.75 wide is going to be problematic when running the piece upright against the fence.
I couldn’t get it to feed smoothly.

Most of the videos I’ve seen on lock miter bits shows them cutting with the grain.

Is there some trick to getting these lock miter bits to cut end grain well, or am I just trying to use it wrong?

Thanks in advance
Duke

[fredhargis]

I've never tried one on end grain, but I can't imagine they wouldn't work. Just a guess, but I'd bet the blowout on the exit end would be bad, so maybe use a push block or something to back the work piece up. It is a big cut, so maybe slow down the router speed a little???

[Cabinet Monkey]

No trick really, it's the wrong tool (bit) for the job.

You'd be just as well off with a splined miter (biscuit) or even a brad nailed miter and they'd be much faster and safer and easier to make.

[jteneyck]

You just need to clamp the narrow parts to a wider board so that it feeds straight across the table and/or fence and bit w/o tipping, etc.  The backer will prevent blowout on the trailing edge of the cut, as well.  

John

[MstrCarpenter]

I've used one on 3/4" birch ply.. Made 1' x 1' x 1', 2', & 3' tall cubes for art displays. All corners mitered; including top to sides, so there was plenty of end grain there. Add an aux. fence tall enough for safety and control before setting the bit depth and distance from fence. Use a tall push block to keep the narrow piece vertical, similar to what you'd do to cut a raised panel drawer front on the T.S..