Shower Grab Bars for Built-in Shower
#11
I need to install some grab bars in my inlaws' shower.  It is a one piece acrylic/plastic shower unit.  Typical install where there is space between the shower unit and the wall.   It is only attached around the edges on the flange.  I think the studs are 24" OC.  I could locate them from the other side of the wall in the bedroom and then measure or confirm the location above the shower.    What can be done/is typically done in this situation?  I could open the wall on the other side and put blocking in if necessary, but I'd prefer not to.

Reply
#12
Since there’s bound to be a lot of strain on those bars if they’re ever needed, I’d probably open the wall to add additional blocking. It’s not going to be fun, but that bar will be anchored to something much more solid, and it’d be easier to hit a 3” wide target than a 1.5” wide target. In my mind, the consequences of a slip and fall for an elderly person would sway my mind on opening up that wall.
Matt

If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
-Jack Handy

Reply
#13
(11-17-2024, 06:28 PM)EatenByLimestone Wrote: Since there’s bound to be a lot of strain on those bars if they’re ever needed, I’d probably open the wall to add additional blocking.  It’s not going to be fun, but that bar will be anchored to something much more solid, and it’d be easier to hit a 3” wide target than a 1.5” wide target.  In my mind, the consequences of a slip and fall for an elderly person would sway my mind on opening up that wall.

+1
Neil Summers Home Inspections




" What would Fred do?"

... CLETUS











Reply
#14
Sorry to say, you have to open up the wall. Consider the grab rail will have to be strong enough that you could stand and stomp on it. That's still less force than if you slipped and grabbed it just before you hit bottom (your total mass plus inertia). I use 2x10's or 12's between the studs with construction adhesive and 4"x 12 ga. screws (not drywall screws) through the studs, then glue/clamp and/or screw plywood to make up the additional thickness required. I use Plaster or Duro-bond, or sometimes just more construction adhesive to fill the irregularities of the fiberglass. I've always used 12 ga. S.S. screws to mount them.

If you consider taking advice that suggests some new, fancy, hollow wall fastener will work, just remember that you're only slightly better than a towel bar. Then tell me you've never seen a towel bar pulled off a wall.

Oh, and another point. It's just as easy to patch a 2' x 4' or 5' hole as a 1' x 1' hole; but there's only one hole.
Big Grin
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
Reply
#15
(11-17-2024, 06:28 PM)EatenByLimestone Wrote: Since there’s bound to be a lot of strain on those bars if they’re ever needed, I’d probably open the wall to add additional blocking.  It’s not going to be fun, but that bar will be anchored to something much more solid, and it’d be easier to hit a 3” wide target than a 1.5” wide target.  In my mind, the consequences of a slip and fall for an elderly person would sway my mind on opening up that wall.

I did something a little different when I installed them for my mother. I went through the wall, to the other side with 1/4" stainless steel threaded rod. (usually a closet or such). On the other side, I used a 4" electrical cover plate with a drilled hole in the middle, as a "washer." After I ran the rods through the wall, I cut them to length with a Dremel wheel. Used 1/4" stainless nuts, and 1/4 acorn nuts as jamb nuts.
[Image: usa-flag-waving-united-states-of-america...if-clr.gif]
Reply
#16
Ok. I figured I'd have to open the wall. I will talk to my wife about whether we need this. She hasn't asked, it is/was my idea. My assumption is that behind the built in there's no drywall. If it was installed as most are, it was installed direct to the studs. If so I can open the wall and build something that I can install flush against the backside of the shower unit. There will likely be the plumbing back there, but that should be something I can deal with.

Reply
#17
Dave, I founfd a couple of pictures to illustrate what I did:


Attached Files Image(s)
   
   
[Image: usa-flag-waving-united-states-of-america...if-clr.gif]
Reply
#18
What is the wall surface under the junction box cover? It looks like it’d be plenty strong enough that the bolts wouldn’t oull through with the large washer!
Matt

If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
-Jack Handy

Reply
#19
Plastered sheetrock.
[Image: usa-flag-waving-united-states-of-america...if-clr.gif]
Reply
#20
(11-19-2024, 06:26 AM)barnowl Wrote: Plastered sheetrock.

Thanks.  That is a thought.  what's on the other side of the wall for me is a bedroom wall so something like that you would see.    I never thought of drywall as structural, but I guess it could hold anchored like that.

Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.