Moveable chicken Coops
#21
If you use a trailer, what is the won't benefit from the idea of free range, so why not just built a coop?

I built one where the wheels could be raised to set it down on the ground. Worked pretty well.

But for 4 chickens you could just lift it up and drag it.
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#22
I built one off these plans when I was in Iowa.



If you do a search for Purina Coop plans you should come up with it.
I put mine on skids and fenced in the bottom underneath with a door in the bottom. Easy to move around with a garden tractor pulling it. I found a big piece of glass at the Restore that I put in one side. In the winter, I'd face it to the south so the sun would shine in. When it warmed up, I'd spin it around and put in a screen. Had a detachable run off to the side that I built later.
I had about 8 hens for a while in it and they did fine even without heat. The only thing heated was the waterer.
Buck

Business Meetings - None of us is as dumb as all of us.
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#23
I built one that will house 4 to 6 hens. It is a coop with a small run attached. If I was to put two wheels on one end, It would become a chicken tractor.

I will post pics later tonight when I get home.
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#24
A guy down the road from me built his chicken coup on one of those cheapo harbor freight trailers.
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#25
When I was growing up we had rabbit and chicken cages that were basically a box with no bottom. All sides had 1/2" mesh (keeps out the weasels and rats) and along the bottom we put a 12" wide strip of mesh that was 6" inside the cage and 6" outside. That laid on the grass and any critter that tried to dig under the sides would dig into the mesh and not be able to get in.

The rabbits and hens liked it because they were in constant contact with new grass because we moved the pens every day as a means of mowing the grass in our backyard.
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#26
no plans, but I can tell/show you what I did that worked.

Quick, easy, and it functions...

Made from 2x4 lumber, ripped down the middle... I think I used 6 or 7 8 footers for the construction. Screw into a 4 x 8 rectangle.... this is the bottom. Then add the vertical posts and stretchers to this box. I then used the ripped 2x4s to create rafters and then put the walls/roof on. I added a floor and cut in a ramp which is pulled up and secured at night. paint and decorate to taste, add egg boxes (in our case half of old plastic plant containers) and a roost. For food/water I used PVC and can easily go 3-4 days before adding food. Water is held in the PVC (and refills from us or from the roof dripping into it) and has nipples on the bottom. To move, I added "skis" on the bottom and have a rope on the front. It is heavy, but only needs to be moved once a week or so and only for a few feet.

No plans... just got the ideas from combining others' online and hope this helps... pics coming
Lawrence
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#27


You can access through the top too...

or through the back for eggs / cleaning
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- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

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#28
water and food




egg boxes are as simple as can be...
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- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

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#29
The ramp is on hinges and pulls up/secures at night

just for kicks... here's our duck house... doghouse type construction... eventually I plan to make "turrets" for the "castle" which will be feeders... but haven't gotten around to it yet...



Just drag it around the garden... after harvest we even put them on our 4x8 raised beds... they loved it
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- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

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#30
Oh yeah, and as to moving them... I drag the tractor in the morning before I let down the gate...then there is no chance of a foot or wing getting damaged. The ladies squawk a bit when I move them, but it doesn't cause them any more than just a little jarring about...

Lawrence
Shazam!! You could be right!!!!!!!
- Timberwolf, 12/23/14

my portfolio
http://s171.photobucket.com/user/ldr_klr/slideshow/portfolio?sort=6
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