Relative humidity determines how or if you want anything more than setting them on the basement floor where the RH is highest for a couple weeks, then bringing them up to a shelf to finish cure. I have 65-70% RH on the concrete, which is fine for summer. Heating season sends them to the garage.
Mostly, though, you want to mind the shape of the rough turning. Too much wood in a cross-grain (tangential) direction can pull a crack open, so round or taper your rough to redirect drying stress at an angle to the grain. On the standard capacity-turned bowl you will see that the heart remains elevated and the dimension stable along the grain, while the shoulders droop and the dimension shrinks slightly across.
My stuff ends up ~3/4 to 1" thick, depending on restyle options desired, and takes three months or thereabout to cure to 10%, equal to the basement RH. I don't coat, nor do I bag. Gave that up twenty years and more ago, along with other fads like bracing across the grain to limit shrink - guaranteed split, BTW.
Floor.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...etness.jpgFall Storage
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...owling.jpgCured
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...age-14.jpgYou can see that the continuous wood on the bottom has contracted ~1/8" in 2 (6%), while the largest diameter appears to have lost 1/2" in 14.25 (3.5%). A bit of that is shoulder drop. What's the lesson? the 1/10th rule of wall thickness is not valid, and unnecessarily prolongs cure time. If you figure 5% on relatively straight grain, you'll have enough for a modest restyle, and your cure time will be somewhere around half of the 1".
The wall need not be uniform in thickness. Close is good enough.
If you haven't already, go to
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/public...eader_id=p and grab
The Wood Handbook. Ch4 has the RH to MC tables, and lots of info on shrink while curing.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.