Band Saw Cutting Slow
#11
I have a 5 year old Grizzly 1HP and I run a 1/2" 3tpi skip tooth Woodslicer. Nice blade.

Today I was re-sawing some 4" Maple and it would hardly cut. I took my time but it took me a few minutes to get through a 3 foot piece. I actually popped a breaker at one point. I'm a home hobbiest and I don't use this much but I like sharp tools.

I think that for most folks band saw blades are just replaced.

HAs any one tried using a Dremel tool to touch up the blades. I see online several folks recommend it (youtube).

I'm thinking about getting a few 5/32" diamond bits and giving it a try.

I realize that when you sharpen you remove some set from the blade but, if I can extend the life of these things, I think it might be worth a try.

Have you had any luck gumming out the gullets with a dremell?

Thanks 
Mark
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#12
I use Jack,Timberwolf's method.Does a great job,sharper than a new blade.

Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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#13
It seems odd that your blade would suddenly start slowing down. Perhaps it's a worn blade. But before you try sharpening it I'm going to ask you a dumb question. Are you sure the blade was properly installed and not on backwards? (Please don't ask me why I would ask that question!)
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#14
Those blades dull insanely fast.

Look into a bimetal blade.
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#15
WoodSlicer blades dull very quickly when they hit anything abrasive or much really hard wood.  They suffer from another problem, too.  Because they have so little set, if the kerf closes just a smidgeon it will pinch on the blade and slow it down or even stop it.  This can happen on even a brand new blade.  So first you have to figure out if the blade is dull or you just hit some wonky wood.  I won't use them because it seems all my wood is wonky.  

Assuming the teeth are dull you can sharpen them with a Dremel and diamond hones.  Lots of YouTube videos out there, pick one you like.  And then order some other blades, too, because even if you like the WoodSlicer it's not the right blade for all resawing work.  

John
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#16
(01-11-2019, 02:54 PM)sawnuts Wrote: I have a 5 year old Grizzly 1HP and I run a 1/2" 3tpi skip tooth Woodslicer. Nice blade.

Today I was re-sawing some 4" Maple and it would hardly cut. I took my time but it took me a few minutes to get through a 3 foot piece. I actually popped a breaker at one point. I'm a home hobbiest and I don't use this much but I like sharp tools.

I think that for most folks band saw blades are just replaced.

HAs any one tried using a Dremel tool to touch up the blades. I see online several folks recommend it (youtube).

I'm thinking about getting a few 5/32" diamond bits and giving it a try.

I realize that when you sharpen you remove some set from the blade but, if I can extend the life of these things, I think it might be worth a try.

Have you had any luck gumming out the gullets with a dremell?

Thanks 
Mark
............................
HAs any one tried using a Dremel tool to touch up the blades. I see online several folks recommend it (youtube).

Yes...15yrs into the technique now...I posted my method here about that time..and many of the guys started doing it that way..Dremel and a diamond chainsaw burr.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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#17
Yes.   I've done it several times.  I've watched several videos on using a Dremel tool to sharpen them.  My blade (Timberwolf) would not cut either.  I ordered off Ebay some diamond bits.  I think from Banggood.  It took for ever to get them, but they worked great.  It was unbelievable how well my blade cut after sharpening.  I didn't build a jig or anything.  I just took a Sharpie and marked my blade.  I sat on a stool by the band saw and just started rotating the bit through the gullet, counterclockwise tooth by tooth.   I have a big Jet and the blade is 133" or something long.  It took maybe 15 minutes.  I also did the back of the blade with the diamond bit.  I may even have done the sides of the blade.,  My blade cuts like a new one.  The best video was some guy who had a no nonsense approach to sharpening bandsaw blades.  The title of his video even titled something like that.
Hope this helps.  You can really over think this, if you want to.  Or, you can just do it and it'll be fine.

RP
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#18
Thanks everyone,

I may give this a try. I only see some cheaper diamond options so I may just get a set of grinding stone varieties. 

The blade is on correctly and I think the problem has been getting worse over time. The maple was the tipping point.

Someone mentioned to try a bimetal blade. I have a 14" (no riser) and use it on domestic wood primarily. I don't do a lot of resewing but I like the resew blades and use them primarily unless I need to cut some tight radii.

Does anyone have a recommedation son another blade that is 1/2" 3TPI and the standard 93 1/2".

What do you use?

Mark
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#19
(01-12-2019, 09:53 AM)sawnuts Wrote: Thanks everyone,

I may give this a try. I only see some cheaper diamond options so I may just get a set of grinding stone varieties. 

The blade is on correctly and I think the problem has been getting worse over time. The maple was the tipping point.

Someone mentioned to try a bimetal blade. I have a 14" (no riser) and use it on domestic wood primarily. I don't do a lot of resewing but I like the resew blades and use them primarily unless I need to cut some tight radii.

Does anyone have a recommedation son another blade that is 1/2" 3TPI and the standard 93 1/2".

What do you use?

Mark
.................
15years ago I started with mounted stones instead of diamond burrs...They didn't work well because the narrow blade wore "channels" in the vitrified stone, making it harder to control..Diamond burrs for sharpening chainsaws solved that problem.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





Reply
#20
(01-12-2019, 09:53 AM)sawnuts Wrote: Thanks everyone,

I may give this a try. I only see some cheaper diamond options so I may just get a set of grinding stone varieties. 

The blade is on correctly and I think the problem has been getting worse over time. The maple was the tipping point.

Someone mentioned to try a bimetal blade. I have a 14" (no riser) and use it on domestic wood primarily. I don't do a lot of resewing but I like the resew blades and use them primarily unless I need to cut some tight radii.

Does anyone have a recommedation son another blade that is 1/2" 3TPI and the standard 93 1/2".

What do you use?

Mark

I use a 1/2" either 3 or 4 point Starrett bimetal blade that I bought from Iturra Design that I'm quite happy with.
                              -Howard
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