CELLOFOAM POLY PANEL EPS INSULATION
#9
I'm sure none of you have ever been in this situation.

Totally coincidental drive-by yard sale.  Lots of tools  HOORAH!

Struck out on tools but seller had stacks of these panels [14.5x48x3/4] at an almost give-away price.

Couldn't walk away from it!  Certain I could find SOME use for it, don'tcha know!!  LOL!

Advertised as insulation between studs on basement walls.

Part of my basement is a crawl space.  Standard fiberglass insulation between floor joists.

Fiberglass itself keeps drooping.  Tired of putting up wire supports. 

These panels will fit in the bays.  More insulation and more support.

Dumb idea???
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#10
Good idea. I *used* to have similar in my shop rafters, before I got a ceiling put in.
I had 1-1/2x4x8 sheets, which I had to cut and fit every one. That was a chore.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#11
Cot the panels to fit between the joists. Push them tight to the bottom of the floor. Then foam the edges to the joists. Perfect air seal between the living an crawl space. If you have enough board double it to get 1 1/2 inches. I bought a cheap spray gun that uses the screw on cans. You can control the bead.
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#12
(02-10-2019, 08:38 PM)Pogo930 Wrote: Cot the panels to fit between the joists.  Push them tight to the bottom of the floor.  Then foam the edges to the joists.  Perfect air seal between the living an crawl space.  If you have enough board double it to get 1 1/2 inches.  I bought a cheap spray gun that uses the screw on cans. You can control the bead.

WRT "push them tight to the bottom of the floor."

Isn't the idea to NOT compress the fiberglass insulation?
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#13
(02-11-2019, 08:44 AM)varkpilot Wrote: WRT "push them tight to the bottom of the floor."

Isn't the idea to NOT compress the fiberglass insulation?

They are talking about rigid foam insulation, not fiberglass.

**Edit-- scratch that-- reread original post and saw fiberglass is already in the joist bays--missed that**

Colin
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#14
1. You will need to evaluate moisture status from crawl space and living area to ensure you don't create a mold conducive environment. The eps, while not a vapor barrier is considered a vapor retarder.

2. Dead air space over about 0.75" has an r-value of 1.0. If you keep that eps an inch below the fiberglass batts (if you have room), you gain an additional 1.0 r-value. If you add another layer as suggested, leaving another gap gains an additional 1.0 and so on.. ( If you have enough to add to the height of the uninsulated space then obviously that is preferred; r-5 per inch rather than r-1 per inch)
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#15
My 2"×8" floor joist cavities, above the unheated crawlspace,  have 2" rigid foam on the bottom and 5 1/2" of batt insulation on top of the foam.
Macky

The wheel of Life is like a toilet-paper roll, the closer to the end you get, the faster it goes around.

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#16
it depends on how cold it gets in your area and in that part of the house.  You don't want to put up a condensation barrier.
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