Sharpening Station
#6
This is my Sharpening set up.
Sandpapers glued to ceramic tiles.
Currently 180-220-400-1000 and a  leather strop.
I use this for touch up chisels and plane blades when I am working these tools.
Also I have the $ 12 honing guide, which works good. I have to machine little to get it flat and square.

If I need serious sharpening, I use my Jet Wet sharpener.

I am using it for 2 weeks , so far good.


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#7
I have noticed that some folks like to use the rough side of the leather. I have always used the smooth side. My reasoning is that for polishing the edge, I want a nice smooth surface free of bumps to do that final polish/burr removal. A secondary reason is that I can look at the track left behind on the surface of the leather and it will give me an ideas on the condition of the edge.

Has anyone ever done a side by side comparison with both sides of a leather strop and looked at the results? with a microscope?
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#8
(02-13-2019, 10:56 AM)Scoony Wrote: I have noticed that some folks like to use the rough side of the leather. I have always used the smooth side. My reasoning is that for polishing the edge, I want a nice smooth surface free of bumps to do that final polish/burr removal. A secondary reason is that I can look at the track left behind on the surface of the leather and it will give me an ideas on the condition of the edge.

Has anyone ever done a side by side comparison with both sides of a leather strop and looked at the results? with a microscope?
..............
I use both...rough side out with larger grit sizes and smooth side out for the finest grits...I feel the rough side out has more "crevices' and holds more compound...Assuming that you use compound on your strops.....I made one strop using cotton web belting..This gives a corrugated surface that, when charged with compound, smooths out like a newly paved asphalt road..It removes burrs quickly.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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#9
(02-13-2019, 11:05 AM)Timberwolf Wrote: ..............
...I feel the rough side out has more "crevices' and holds more compound...Assuming that you use compound on your strops......

I have heard that before, but I use the green stuff and have no problem getting it into the smooth side of leather. I will use a little mineral oil with the green compound to get it in. 

When it starts to get grungy, I will use a rag with some mineral spirits to clean it up and that renews the surface pretty good.
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#10
(02-13-2019, 02:33 PM)Scoony Wrote: I have heard that before, but I use the green stuff and have no problem getting it into the smooth side of leather. I will use a little mineral oil with the green compound to get it in. 

When it starts to get grungy, I will use a rag with some mineral spirits to clean it up and that renews the surface pretty good.

......................
I doubt there's any difference in the edge produced..None that I can measure anyway. There is definitely a difference in the type of compound tho. I received 25 carats of .5 micron diamond powder yesterday. I have been using "pre-mixed" diamond paste in a syringe but I am sure that the diamond concentration of the cheap syringes is not equal to what you can make yourself..I am almost out of the industrial diamond paste that I had..that was heavy concentration and fast acting...Diamond "beds down" into the substrate and the polishing effect lasts a long time. When I was into the lapidary hobby, I charged copper plates with it for gemstone polishing...We use lipstick as a "carrier" for the diamond powder..and I want to make one for my Worksharp.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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