cutting and backing a beveled mirror
#11
I have a 60"x18"x1/8" piece of beveled edge mirror that I want to cut down to 44" in length. 

I've cut glass before several times, easy,but never a piece with a beveled edge..  just want to make sure that bevel isn't going to throw me for a loop..  still just one hard pass up the beveled edge with the cutter or do I need to do anything different?

second - recommendations for what adhesive to use to adhere it to a piece of 1/8" plywood, mostly to ensure it holds together if it breaks?
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#12
I'd bring it to you local glass store.

Wouldn't they have to re-bevel it at the cut anyway?

Even if you aren't going to re-bevel, I'd still have them do it.
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#13
(09-30-2020, 01:14 PM)barnowl Wrote: I'd bring it to you local glass store.

Wouldn't they have to re-bevel it at the cut anyway?

Even if you aren't going to re-bevel, I'd still have them do it.

no re-bevel I plan to put it in a wooden frame I made that will hide the remaining bevels
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#14
No help with cutting but when framing a mirror, paint the cut edges black. Even a black permanent marker works. The cut edge tends to be visible as it reflects in the mirror. Painting it black eliminates that. Learned this trick from a picture framer.
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#15
(09-30-2020, 10:54 PM)WoodCzech Wrote: No help with cutting but when framing a mirror, paint the cut edges black.  Even a black permanent marker works.  The cut edge tends to be visible as it reflects in the mirror.  Painting it black eliminates that.  Learned this trick from a picture framer.

I was a picture framer too.  I agree.  A wider rabbet will also address this.  It is only obvious when looking at the mirror at an angle.

If I were to cut the beveled mirror I would take my angle grinder and put on a very think ceramic tile disc.  I would make a notch in the bevel just deep enough to reach into the flat section.  Then I would cut the glass in the normal manner.

NOTE:  I have never tried this, but I would be fine doing so in the future.  Go slow with the angle grinder.  It is about 20 seconds worth of grinding.
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#16
(10-01-2020, 07:37 AM)Cooler Wrote: I was a picture framer too.  I agree.  A wider rabbet will also address this.  It is only obvious when looking at the mirror at an angle.

If I were to cut the beveled mirror I would take my angle grinder and put on a very think ceramic tile disc.  I would make a notch in the bevel just deep enough to reach into the flat section.  Then I would cut the glass in the normal manner.

NOTE:  I have never tried this, but I would be fine doing so in the future.  Go slow with the angle grinder.  It is about 20 seconds worth of grinding.

Interesting, thanks.

What about scoring the back-side where it's flat all the way across?
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#17
(10-01-2020, 07:44 AM)mound Wrote: Interesting, thanks.

What about scoring the back-side where it's flat all the way across?
I considered that idea too.  But was uncertain about how cleanly it would break.  I would test grind the bevel in an area that would not be included in the finished product. 

I have a wall mounted Fletcher-Terry glass cutter, so my "skill" level is largely dependent upon the equipment I have (which is very good).  I have little experience cutting outside that equipment.
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#18
Aren't belveled mirrors by definition tempered glass?

If so, you can't cut it yourself take it to a glass place.
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#19
(10-01-2020, 10:37 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Aren't belveled mirrors by definition tempered glass?

If so, you can't cut it yourself take it to a glass place.

good question! I have no idea
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#20
(10-01-2020, 01:08 PM)mound Wrote: good question! I have no idea

I don't know if all beveled mirrors are made from tempered glass, but certainly some are.  I cannot imagine why it would have to be tempered.

https://www.dullesglassandmirror.com/oval-mirrors

Add depth and spaciousness to a room with a mirror created by Dulles Glass & Mirror. This oval mirror features a carefully crafted 1-inch polished bevel. Each mirror is made of durable annealed glass with safety backing.
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