Quarter, quarter, quarter drawers?
#11
I’ve never made a drawer but will be making them for use in the shop to store stuff that is used regularly and occasionally. Is this style drawer good for this use? They seem easy to make. 

https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2014/09/...er-system/

Is this a decent way to start making drawers? Or are there other easy ways to make solid shop drawers?
Jim

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#12
It's a very good method. The possible downside for you is that the material needs to be exactly 1/2”. You may or may not have access to such at a price reasonable for shop drawers.
Carolyn

Trip Blog for Twelve Countries:   [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]

"It's good to know, but it's better to understand."  Auze Jackson
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#13
Carolyn, why wouldn’t it work if all the wood is the same thickness, why does it have to be 1/2 inch? I would think 1/2” would be a minimum though.
Jim

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#14
I used this method with 12mm BB plywood. You use 1/2 the material thickness. The BB ply I used measured .470" or 12mm. I just used .235" settings. Nice thing about this method one set up for all the pieces. It is to have a sharp flat top grind blade but not necessary.
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#15
(01-01-2021, 10:57 PM)stoppy Wrote: Carolyn, why wouldn’t it work if all the wood is the same thickness, why does it have to be 1/2 inch? I would think 1/2” would be a minimum though.

It does work with any thickness, just do the math.
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#16
Yep, it works good. That joint can be cut into other thicknesses, but not quite as handily as that video would have you believe. All my shop drawers are constructed with that joint.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#17
For shop drawers I've had good luck with butt joints, brad nails, and glue - especially if I glue in a plywood bottom. You're probably nicer to them than folks are in a kitchen (slam! slam! slam!) even if they're holding cast iron.
Computer geek and amateur woodworker.
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#18
I also use that joint a lot. It is very easy and quick and a clean looking joint. I even use it for the back of the drawers when I dovetail the fronts. The only caution is that the remaining narrow bit left after making the dado is very fragile; particularly if you are using plywood. Once glued up, it is OK.
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#19
You guys are of course correct. My mind got stuck on “quarter". It would still need to be a dimension you can set the dado to.

For shallow shop drawers that won’t be holding anything heavy, I glue the bottom on with the sides sticking out to serve as slides in a frameless cabinet. It's wonderful not to have that lip that catches things.
Carolyn

Trip Blog for Twelve Countries:   [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]

"It's good to know, but it's better to understand."  Auze Jackson
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#20
(01-02-2021, 02:08 PM)MsNomer Wrote: For shallow shop drawers that won’t be holding anything heavy, I glue the bottom on with the sides sticking out to serve as slides in a frameless cabinet.  It's wonderful not to have that lip that catches things.

I have done the same. butt joint and glue the drawers, glue the lipped bottom on, clamp everything with 18 gauge brads, and add one or two screws through the side joint just for insurance. I have had at least 35 of this style drawers in my shop for more than 20 years with not a single failure. If you want to make fancy joints go ahead but consider it practice not necessity. BTW, I consider the bottom edge running in a dado drawers a plus over slides as they do not come open when rolling the cabinets around in the shop.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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