Bypass the safety lights on OH door opener
#11
Is it possible to bypass the safety lights? Now, I don't need lectures from the safety police on this. I'm installing on a machine shed (pole barn) and right now my solution is to mount them up high next to each other near the opener. But this means that from time to time I may have to climb up there and clean them off. Seems like there would be models available for use outside of residential buildings (maybe there is and I didn't find them).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#12
Find a short piece of 1/2" PVC pipe, or PEX, or cardboard tube, or something similar, and put the two units facing each other with the little tube between them to keep the dirt out.  Mount them to a piece of scrap, and mount that up high, out of the way.  Just don't block the little indicator lights, so you can see if they're not working.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#13
Thank you, that will be simple enough.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
I taped the two units together and put them up near the motor drive.  20+ years later all is well.  

John
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#15
(09-10-2021, 09:55 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I taped the two units together and put them up near the motor drive.  20+ years later all is well.  

John

I did the same thing but just put them on top of the motor. 3 years,; no problems. Now does someone have a work-around for these new "smart" controllers? The openers used to just use a door bell button to make momentary contact. That doesn't work with the newer styles.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#16
Mine are in the attic.
Laugh

Ed
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#17
I got it installed, just butted the 2 devices together at the end of the rail. Like Tom said, keeping an eye on the indicator lights could be useful. One other note if anyone faces the same issue I did. This was an 8' tall door, and I used a 7' opener. With some minor workaround it opens the door fully. I had the extension  kit (Chamberlain belt drice) but didn't want to use it because it added a few more inches to the overall length than I wanted to deal with.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
(09-10-2021, 04:59 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote:  Now does someone have a work-around for these new "smart" controllers? The openers used to just use a door bell button to make momentary contact. That doesn't work with the newer styles.
I ordered the wrong button for our opener and for longer than I would like to admit we just had the wires.  Weirdly, the wrong opener wouldn't work, but touching the two wires together would.
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#19
Curious. Why bypass them? I had a problem with afternoon glare. Just moved 2 sensor back from the door a bit. After after having to go inside and close from inside every now and then, for the last 4 years!  Slow learner. Wife is thrilled now.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#20
Like I said, this one is on a machine shed (pole barn), with a gravel floor. Besides being unnecessary, maintenance in such a dirty environment would be a pain. The door is open most of the time through the summer, so it's not only glare but rain blowing in, spiders and cobwebs....which leads to other stuff being stuck on the lens, etc. I have to think there are some made for this use that don't have the safety lights. In any case it's done now.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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