Lacquer or Poly
#10
I'm making a couple planters for LOML. I used Gorilla glue and need to use a good top coat. I'm trying to decide if I should use an oil base poly or lacquer.

The planters are mainly for inside use but the plants will need water from time to time.

Jim
Jim
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#11
Won’t really matter for the exterior though lacquer is hard to find these days.  Unless it’s waterborne.

Won’t really matter on the inside either since the soil and water is going to destroy anything short of epoxy.  Best to get a liner that’s waterproof.
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#12
I did a very similar project just a few weeks ago for a family member. Two boxes made of walnut. I made them with a pull-out tray for excess water to drip into and covered the interior with fiberglass mat and painted the outside with fiberglass resin and a couple of coats of spar varnish for UV protection. The walnut color and figure shines through nicely and they are well protected from moisture. So far so good.
   
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#13
Lacquer dries hard and won't be very flexible for an outdoor application, where there would be a lot of expansion and contraction. Your lacquer will get cracks and end up a mess. I'd use marine varnish or something rated for outdoor use.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#14
No thought about - poly.  I like the ease of lacquer but poly dries pretty fast now.
John

Always use the right tool for the job.

We need to clean house.
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#15
I’d use a brush able water based poly from General Finishes or similar. Fast, easy, low odor, good protection.

Might be a good time to try Mono Rubio coat as well. I hope to do so on my next non bomb proof finish.


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#16
there was a post a few years ago about using untinted exterior house paint for exterior projects that needed a clear coat....base #4?

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#17
(06-27-2022, 10:16 AM)meackerman Wrote: there was a post a few years ago about using untinted exterior house paint for exterior projects that needed a clear coat....base #4?

I read those posts and blogs a few years ago. It seemed like a plausible idea so I tried it by sanding smooth and painting all sides of a board with only the base (untinted) of a name brand exterior enamel. I placed it in an exposed exterior location. I don't remember the exact time, but it was less than 6 months when I checked it, and most all of the 3 coats of finish was flaking off. It was a total failure.

It is my understanding that most if not all of these exterior paints depend mostly on the pigments to shield from UV rays. It appears that it is a mistake to eliminate the pigments. However, having said that, I used some of the same product (without the tint) to paint a plant stand that has been on a covered terrace for a couple of years and is not exposed to the sun and weather. It has held up well.
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#18
(06-28-2022, 02:12 PM)Willyou Wrote: I read those posts and blogs a few years ago. It seemed like a plausible idea so I tried it by sanding smooth and painting all sides of a board with only the base (untinted) of a name brand exterior enamel. I placed it in an exposed exterior location. I don't remember the exact time, but it was less than 6 months when I checked it, and most all of the 3 coats of finish was flaking off. It was a total failure.

It is my understanding that most if not all of these exterior paints depend mostly on the pigments to shield from UV rays. It appears that it is a mistake to eliminate the pigments. However, having said that, I used some of the same product (without the tint) to paint a plant stand that has been on a covered terrace for a couple of years and is not exposed to the sun and weather. It has held up well.

interesting to hear some real world experience using it.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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