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Really depends upon size of spindles you turn, recommend ½” for small & ¾” for larger. Mo-better if get both sizes to start!
My skews run from ¼” to 1 ¼” and used them all on various spindle work.
Just find plenty of scrap wood to practice on.
Bill
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I've probably watched a hundred Intro to the skew videos to see if I can figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'll let you know if I find one that works
It seems like everyone has a different opinion. One school of thought that stuck with me is that you want to engage the wood at about the bottom third of the edge. 1/3 of a 1/2" blade is a very very small amount of material, so a large skew is likely easier to find the sweet spot. This rule of thumb has had me sticking with at least a 1" skew. I can't say it works for everyone, but it has seemed to helped me out.
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I have and use both sizes of the Alan Lacer signature skews (both in the 2030 alloy) and an assortment of others.
I mainly use the large Lacer skew and a 1" shew that has the traditional grind. I have a Sorby micro skew that mainly gets used as a drop-nose scraper for fine tuning dovetails to go into the chuck.
I like the flat-sided skews as opposed to the the oval cross-section ones. They are much easier to sharpen and MUCH easier to use when you are using it with the long edge down.
If you get a basic rectangular cross-section skew, use a grinder to lightly break/round the edges on the long point side. This will make them much friendlier to your fingers and easier to slide on your toolrest without cutting in. Leave most of that long edge flat for setting the skew down flat on it on the toolrest for cutting-in for grooves. On the short edge, do a more thorough round-over of the edges. This will widen the sweet spot when cutting with the short edge down.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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IMHO I would start with a standard 1"W 1/4" thick skew.
It can be very frustrating asking an open question, especially concerning the skew, as the skew offers so many options.
I asked at a club and received about this same response. "One school of thought that stuck with me is that you want to engage the wood at about the bottom third of the edge." Not an improper answer but my fault in a very open ended question.
That is fine for a planing cut and maybe turning beads (I use the heel or short point for beads).
It is pure heck to for cutting a V groove ( I tried it for hours), pommels, or end cleanup.
It all depends on what cut you are trying to make. I only use the bottom half to the lower point for planing but others may do different. A lot of tools have a more singular purpose.
I suggest Allen Lacers The Skew, the good, the bad, and the ugly (or something like that). Yep, will cost you $30 but worth it and you can resell it quickly for $20.
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There's a video out there called Screw the Skew which for me demystified the skew. He recommended a 3/4" flat skew. He said he tried the Lacer, and he liked it, but it was difficult to sharpen. He also felt it was too big to do any kind of real detail work, since the thickness of the tool limits how narrow a v-groove you can make. Of all the lathe tools, the skew benefits the most from being very, very sharp.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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I'd get a 1" straight chisel and do the skewing on my own for roughing through planing. Lot easier to get work done instead of complaining about what seems to be considered a rite of passage for some.
If you let the manufacturer do the skew, a 1" is still the object of choice. All the other oval, convex grind and round is something you will have to learn after you get one. I learned on the straight edge, but I use an overhand grip, so nothing digs or grabs like those who use an underhand.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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I don't brag about my skewing around, but my favorite is a 3/4" Robert Sorby oval.
