04-03-2015, 02:38 PM
I had promised a long time ago, at the request of several folks, to do a tutorial of how I make 1911 pistol grips. As you read through this and view the pictures, keep in mind that this is the method I currently use, which may or may not be the best method for you. There are some steps that can probably be done differently or more efficiently, but I do these for the enjoyment of doing them and I arrived at this process after scouring the internet on how to make them and then just going for it. Some of my fixtures look crude or primitive and I keep thinking I need to improve them, but they work, so I don’t mess with them.
I am in the process of making several sets, including a set of 45 degree cut bamboo, which is the set I took pictures of during my process. I’ve tried to be concise with my steps, but feel free to ask questions, critique my method, or offer advice.
Thanks,
-jason
1911 Pistol Grip How-To:
1. SELECT THE WOOD: Select the piece of wood you want (bamboo for this example) to use for the pistol grips. I generally like to start with a blank that is thick enough so I can resaw it and have bookmatched grips, to me it just looks better on the pistol.
2. DETERMINE THE LAYOUT: I have created templates of the right and left grip, including a set out of clear acrylic/polycarbonate. I use these to determine the best layout of the grip, left and right sides, and top/bottom orientation.
3. RESAW THE BLANK: Resaw the blank in half and thickness to slightly more than what you want the finished thickness of the grip to be. I use my drum sander to smooth and thickness them.
(sorry, don't have a picture of the two blanks after resawing)
4. CUT BLANKS TO ROUGH SIZE: After resawing the pieces, use the clear templates to layout each grip (left and right sides), trace around the template and trim to rough size on the band saw or scroll saw.
5. PREP BLANKS FOR FLUSH TRIM: Adhere the roughed out blank to a set of templates using two-sided carpet tape and install a flush trim bit in the router table. (I use a spiral cut flush trim bit to minimize tearout).
Note: The picture above shows a different set of templates (mdf covered w/laminate), but they are the same as the clear templates.
6. FLUSH TRIM THE GRIPS: Flush trim both the right and left blank on the router table and remove from the template.
After flush trimming the grip:
7. DRILL THE HOLES: At this point, I drill my holes in the grips using one of my “primitive” fixtures. The holes need to be precisely spaced or they will not properly fit the frame. For this style grip I use a ¼” drill bit and the holes are spaced 3 1/16” apart (center to center).
a. Set up the fixture on the drill press using the fence and appropriate hold downs. This fixture consists of a fixed base, a sliding block (to accurately space the holes), and a stationary block with a hole for drilling the counterbores (more on this later).
b. For drilling the holes I have the fixed base clamped to the table and the sliding fixture in place and to the right. I set the first grip in the fixture and drill the first hole.
c. Clear all the dust and chips, slide the fixture to the left stop and drill the second hole (see video). If everything is setup properly you end up with accurately spaced holes in the correct location. Lather, rinse, and repeat with the next and any subsequent grip blanks.
Fixed Base:
Sliding Block:
Counterbore Block:
Sliding block in Fixed base:
And with the grip:
First hole drilled:
Move "sliding block" to the left:
and drill the second hole:
8. COUNTERBORE THE BACK: After drilling all the through holes for all grips in the current batch I switch out my drill bit with a counterbore bit w/pilot and remove the sliding block and set in the fixed block (which just has a hole drilled in it to accept the pilot as it exits the bottom of the grip). I use this bit to counterbore the back of the grip, the face will be done after shaping the contour.
Counterbore bit w/pilot:
the fixed block in the jig:
and the counterbore:
9. SCRIBING THE EDGE: Now set a marking gauge to around 1/16”+ (I just eyeball it) and scribe a mark, referencing off the bottom of the grip, on each of the long sides. This scribed line gives an edge thickness to work towards and helps avoid getting it too thin while shaping.
*Note: If I am going to “chamfer” the end/bottom of the grip I will scribe the line on the bottom of the grip also.
10. SHAPING THE GRIP: Using another fixture (even more primitive than the last) to hold the grip, I will begin the shaping process. This fixture consists of a piece of 2 x 6 material about 12” long that I’ve drilled two ¼” holes in and insert ¼” dowels into. The holes are spaced accordingly to accept the grips. Clamp the 2 x 6 in the end vise and set the grip over the dowels to hold it in place.
The grip holding fixture (fancy, huh?):
I use a small, Stanley 102 handplane to shape the grip.
a. Start on one side of the grip and begin “chamfering” it towards the scribed line from Step 9. Take several passes before shifting the plane a little towards the center of the grip and planing it more. Continue shaping in this manner, working towards the center, keeping an eye on the shape of the grip, and the thickness of the edge (trying to leave just a hint of the scribed line).
b. Rotate the grip 180 degrees in the fixture and work on the other side. The last couple of swipes are down the “high point” of the grip, which is hole-to-hole.
c. Check for symmetry and overall shape, not worrying too much if there are light ridges or plane marks as it will get sanded later to further refine the shape and edges.
d. Repeat this process for the other and any remaining grips.
11. INITIAL SANDING: Once your grips are shaped, it’s time to sand them. Using the same fixture from Step 10 to secure the grip, break out the ROS. I can usually start with 150-180 grit as the plane does a pretty decent job if the blade is sharp.
a. Sand the back of the grip first so you won’t mar the face after it is sanded.
b. Flip the grip over and sand the face, but be conscious of the shape of the grip, AND the edges. Remember that line we scribed earlier? You’ll want to sand down to the line (until it just disappears) and then slightly round over the edge.
Both grips shaped and sanded:
[b]
12. RELIEF CUT LEFT GRIP: The left grip needs a relief cut to fit under the plunger tube. To do this take a 3 sided file and file a shallow groove in the top of the LEFT grip.
Then move to a round file, to get a nice contour and, using the shallow groove as a guide, file the relief in the top of the grip.
The grip should now fit under the plunger tube as shown
13. COUNTERBORE THE FACE: [/b] Take the grip back to the drill press and counterbore each hole on the front of the grip using the same fixture from step. The head of the screw should fit flush or just below the surface of the grip.
14. TEST FIT THE GRIPS: Test fit the grips on the frame to ensure a snug fit and install the screws to ensure they are at or below the surface of the grip.
Here you can see the shape of the grips
15. FINISH SANDING: Take the grips back to the sanding jig and ,depending on the wood and finish being used, sand through 400-600 grit, sometimes going as high as 1200 grit.
a. Hand sand each grip using the finest grit used on the ROS.
b. Wipe off any dust and check the grips for scratches, defects, etc. Clean up until you are satisfied.
16. APPLYING THE FINISH: Using an oil/varnish blend or TruOil, apply several coats (scuffing between coats) of finish to the grip (follow the finish manufacturers instructions). If so desired, buff them with wax after the last coat of oil has cured.
17. INSTALL THE GRIPS: Install the grips on your pistol and wait for the compliments to roll in!
Hope this helps someone decide to make their own grips, but keep in mind that there are many ways to do it. I prefer using the plane to shape them, but most of what I read prior to making my first set used a fixture on a belt or disc sander. Others use different drilling jigs/fixtures, and still others won’t tell you what they do!
Also, I have a short video of the hole-drilling fixture in use, but can't seem to embed the video....any help?
I am in the process of making several sets, including a set of 45 degree cut bamboo, which is the set I took pictures of during my process. I’ve tried to be concise with my steps, but feel free to ask questions, critique my method, or offer advice.
Thanks,
-jason
1911 Pistol Grip How-To:
1. SELECT THE WOOD: Select the piece of wood you want (bamboo for this example) to use for the pistol grips. I generally like to start with a blank that is thick enough so I can resaw it and have bookmatched grips, to me it just looks better on the pistol.
2. DETERMINE THE LAYOUT: I have created templates of the right and left grip, including a set out of clear acrylic/polycarbonate. I use these to determine the best layout of the grip, left and right sides, and top/bottom orientation.
3. RESAW THE BLANK: Resaw the blank in half and thickness to slightly more than what you want the finished thickness of the grip to be. I use my drum sander to smooth and thickness them.
(sorry, don't have a picture of the two blanks after resawing)
4. CUT BLANKS TO ROUGH SIZE: After resawing the pieces, use the clear templates to layout each grip (left and right sides), trace around the template and trim to rough size on the band saw or scroll saw.
5. PREP BLANKS FOR FLUSH TRIM: Adhere the roughed out blank to a set of templates using two-sided carpet tape and install a flush trim bit in the router table. (I use a spiral cut flush trim bit to minimize tearout).
Note: The picture above shows a different set of templates (mdf covered w/laminate), but they are the same as the clear templates.
6. FLUSH TRIM THE GRIPS: Flush trim both the right and left blank on the router table and remove from the template.
After flush trimming the grip:
7. DRILL THE HOLES: At this point, I drill my holes in the grips using one of my “primitive” fixtures. The holes need to be precisely spaced or they will not properly fit the frame. For this style grip I use a ¼” drill bit and the holes are spaced 3 1/16” apart (center to center).
a. Set up the fixture on the drill press using the fence and appropriate hold downs. This fixture consists of a fixed base, a sliding block (to accurately space the holes), and a stationary block with a hole for drilling the counterbores (more on this later).
b. For drilling the holes I have the fixed base clamped to the table and the sliding fixture in place and to the right. I set the first grip in the fixture and drill the first hole.
c. Clear all the dust and chips, slide the fixture to the left stop and drill the second hole (see video). If everything is setup properly you end up with accurately spaced holes in the correct location. Lather, rinse, and repeat with the next and any subsequent grip blanks.
Fixed Base:
Sliding Block:
Counterbore Block:
Sliding block in Fixed base:
And with the grip:
First hole drilled:
Move "sliding block" to the left:
and drill the second hole:
8. COUNTERBORE THE BACK: After drilling all the through holes for all grips in the current batch I switch out my drill bit with a counterbore bit w/pilot and remove the sliding block and set in the fixed block (which just has a hole drilled in it to accept the pilot as it exits the bottom of the grip). I use this bit to counterbore the back of the grip, the face will be done after shaping the contour.
Counterbore bit w/pilot:
the fixed block in the jig:
and the counterbore:
9. SCRIBING THE EDGE: Now set a marking gauge to around 1/16”+ (I just eyeball it) and scribe a mark, referencing off the bottom of the grip, on each of the long sides. This scribed line gives an edge thickness to work towards and helps avoid getting it too thin while shaping.
*Note: If I am going to “chamfer” the end/bottom of the grip I will scribe the line on the bottom of the grip also.
10. SHAPING THE GRIP: Using another fixture (even more primitive than the last) to hold the grip, I will begin the shaping process. This fixture consists of a piece of 2 x 6 material about 12” long that I’ve drilled two ¼” holes in and insert ¼” dowels into. The holes are spaced accordingly to accept the grips. Clamp the 2 x 6 in the end vise and set the grip over the dowels to hold it in place.
The grip holding fixture (fancy, huh?):
I use a small, Stanley 102 handplane to shape the grip.
a. Start on one side of the grip and begin “chamfering” it towards the scribed line from Step 9. Take several passes before shifting the plane a little towards the center of the grip and planing it more. Continue shaping in this manner, working towards the center, keeping an eye on the shape of the grip, and the thickness of the edge (trying to leave just a hint of the scribed line).
b. Rotate the grip 180 degrees in the fixture and work on the other side. The last couple of swipes are down the “high point” of the grip, which is hole-to-hole.
c. Check for symmetry and overall shape, not worrying too much if there are light ridges or plane marks as it will get sanded later to further refine the shape and edges.
d. Repeat this process for the other and any remaining grips.
11. INITIAL SANDING: Once your grips are shaped, it’s time to sand them. Using the same fixture from Step 10 to secure the grip, break out the ROS. I can usually start with 150-180 grit as the plane does a pretty decent job if the blade is sharp.
a. Sand the back of the grip first so you won’t mar the face after it is sanded.
b. Flip the grip over and sand the face, but be conscious of the shape of the grip, AND the edges. Remember that line we scribed earlier? You’ll want to sand down to the line (until it just disappears) and then slightly round over the edge.
Both grips shaped and sanded:
[b]
12. RELIEF CUT LEFT GRIP: The left grip needs a relief cut to fit under the plunger tube. To do this take a 3 sided file and file a shallow groove in the top of the LEFT grip.
Then move to a round file, to get a nice contour and, using the shallow groove as a guide, file the relief in the top of the grip.
The grip should now fit under the plunger tube as shown
13. COUNTERBORE THE FACE: [/b] Take the grip back to the drill press and counterbore each hole on the front of the grip using the same fixture from step. The head of the screw should fit flush or just below the surface of the grip.
14. TEST FIT THE GRIPS: Test fit the grips on the frame to ensure a snug fit and install the screws to ensure they are at or below the surface of the grip.
Here you can see the shape of the grips
15. FINISH SANDING: Take the grips back to the sanding jig and ,depending on the wood and finish being used, sand through 400-600 grit, sometimes going as high as 1200 grit.
a. Hand sand each grip using the finest grit used on the ROS.
b. Wipe off any dust and check the grips for scratches, defects, etc. Clean up until you are satisfied.
16. APPLYING THE FINISH: Using an oil/varnish blend or TruOil, apply several coats (scuffing between coats) of finish to the grip (follow the finish manufacturers instructions). If so desired, buff them with wax after the last coat of oil has cured.
17. INSTALL THE GRIPS: Install the grips on your pistol and wait for the compliments to roll in!
Hope this helps someone decide to make their own grips, but keep in mind that there are many ways to do it. I prefer using the plane to shape them, but most of what I read prior to making my first set used a fixture on a belt or disc sander. Others use different drilling jigs/fixtures, and still others won’t tell you what they do!
Also, I have a short video of the hole-drilling fixture in use, but can't seem to embed the video....any help?
