How to get handles "red" on old tools?

[toolmiser]

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but how can you get that nice dark red color on wooden handles on old tools? I'm thinking like Miller Falls drills etc. I found a breast drill and the handle finish is about 90% gone, just enough left to see what it might have looked like. Thanks!

[thomasegan]

Not long ago I was trying to match the dark red (maybe it's properly called "burgundy" or some other name) of Stanley 750 chisel handles. I mixed a bit of black and red enamel paint- and I mean just dabbing a few drops of each on some smooth plastic and mixing. It didn't take long to get a "good enough" match. No formula I can pass on, but it's pretty do-able. More red than black, that's for sure.

te

[Big Woody]

thomasegan said:

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Not long ago I was trying to match the dark red (maybe it's properly called "burgundy" or some other name) of Stanley 750 chisel handles. I mixed a bit of black and red enamel paint- and I mean just dabbing a few drops of each on some smooth plastic and mixing. It didn't take long to get a "good enough" match. No formula I can pass on, but it's pretty do-able. More red than black, that's for sure.

te

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If you do go that route, don't use black in the mix. use dark brown, or even a little navy blue. Black tend to mak colors dull.

If you google some oil painter websites, you can find deluxe color wheels that show how many colors combine. Try a search for "The real color wheel."

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I don't have a formula but I would start with Transtint dye--or similar brand--in denatured alcohol. You could use water as well. Using a dye, you'd could keep adding deeper color and depth. You could also easily adjust the color by using a damp rag with DNA or water to lighten it up if you get it too dark. Another benefit would being able to make very small batches while dialing in your color. I can't think of an easier process that would allow flexibility while seeking a deep transparent color that still showed the grain.

I have seen and own 750 chisels that vary a bit in not only color but grain transparency as well. Some have had a much thicker and more opaque appearance where others clearing show the grain patterns. I'm sure it varied some over the years and wear from handling would be a factor as well.

[TGW]

I just fresh up the old finish with some boiled linseed oil. There is no reason to make old look new or make replacement handles look original as long as they are well made.

[Bibliophile 13]

I think the old-fashioned solution was to make them out of old-growth mahogany.

[EricU]

Pretty sure as soon as natural shellac on rosewood started being too expensive, they started to fake that color one way or another. They got really good at it, I stripped the finish off of one plane tote and it was maple.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I don't know if I've ever read what wood was used with 750's but it look a lot like ash to me. I really don't think it was mahogany. Mahogany is rather soft.

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

There's a Mohawk toner that looks very similar to the Stanley 750 finish when you apply 2-3 coats. Guy over on Lumberjocks mentioned it years ago and I saved the info and have used it a couple times.

It's called M100 0227 Dark red mahogany. Looks great. Comes in a rattle can from Mohawk Finishing products for about $7/can on WoodShopProducts.com

You can lacquer over the toner for a protectant and gloss.

[Big Woody]

It could also be something like a hardening oil / varnish with pigment mixed into it. That would give the color without looking so "painted on."

Maybe try something like True Oil, and get some red & brown pigments for Kremer.