Usefulness of #2 smoother

[HomerLee]

I just sold a nice Marsh M2 smoother, and I have a Bailey #2 that, as you may recall, I had the bad experience of discovering the left cheek has a hairline crack. I have been thinking that I would keep the Bailey as a user as I'm sure its value is significantly diminished but I have numerous block planes to use and am questioning why use a #2 smoother when a block plane seems to fit the hand better?

Any thoughts pro or con?

Thanks

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

In my case, I have a couple #2's because I have young children. It fits their hands very well, and they really enjoy using them. The narrow blade means they are easier to push, and the full tote and knob makes it much easier to get a positive hold onto, much better grip for them than a block.

In the interests of full disclosure and forthrightness; I also would own at least one anyway, just because it fills out the set and looks good on the plane till.

[lilrichard2]

I have a couple of #2's also - saving them for my great granddaughter who is now old enough to use them. Also have another #2 on the way

Some advice for you - should you ever decide to part with your remaining #2, don't sell it as is, as you'll take a loss - rather part it out. You'll be surprised what parts for a #2 bring.


Richard

[millcrek]

Block planes do not have a cap iron. A #2 with a cap iron will handle grain issues that a block plane will not and fit where a larger smother will not.

[C. in Indy]

The "Schwarz" just blogged about switching over to a No. 2 for his main smoother this past year. He also will be writing about changing the rear tote to improve the grip, similar to the tote on the Millers Falls No. 7, which is also like a Fulton 3708 which I have. It's a nice curvaceous tote which does have advantages. Very interesting!

[Admiral]

Chris likes to stir the pot. No way a #2 can do it all. That being said, I use mine more than I expected.

[Derek Cohen]

C. in Indy said:

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The "Schwarz" just blogged about switching over to a No. 2 for his main smoother this past year. He also will be writing about changing the rear tote to improve the grip, similar to the tote on the Millers Falls No. 7, which is also like a Fulton 3708 which I have. It's a nice curvaceous tote which does have advantages. Very interesting!

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I would not wish to emulate CS literally in this regard. Far easier, if you want a small smoother (which has been my preference for years) I would recommend you instead use a wooden plane. CS states on his blog that he prefers a metal plane, and that is why he will use a #2. To do so, however, he has to modify the handle, which is too small for an adult hand.

Alternatives include the #3 (Stanley or LN) or Small BU by LV (all of which are closer to the length of a #4 but have a narrower blade), coffin smoothers (which are typically about 7 1/2" in length), and more modern planes by HNT Gordon, Mujingfang, and most Japanese smoothers.

What to do with a #2? I do not know - never had one and unlikely to seek one out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[DJChurn]

I tried using one I had and found that it was uncomfortable. By far my favorite block planes are the ones with the knuckle jointed cap. Very comfortable.

[Erik M]

I have a Millers Falls No 7 but when I want to use a small plane, I have a LN No 2 or a Veritas block plane. Both work well.

[Bibliophile 13]

A #2 is very useful for small smoothing jobs, especially when you have a slightly low area and just need to remove that last bit of tearout and/or saw marks without having to level the whole surface down to that level. I've reached for my daughter's #2 on a number of occasions.

As to holding it, unless you have tiny hands, don't try to wrap your fingers around the tote. Instead, put the tote in your palm and wrap your fingers around the frog assembly, and you'll be much more comfortable.