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OK, just bought a couple of faceplates and will be practicing making bowls on an otherwise scrap piece of walnut. Now, I'm guessing you don't just put any ol' screw you have laying around into these things (?), is there a particular one you suggest? Also, these faceplates (Easy Wood Tools) each have a vinyl/plastic/something washer with them, I'm guessing this goes between the faceplate and the face of the arbor....to keep it from getting stuck (?). Lastly, if I get past the try out stage of this, I have some nice smaller bowl blanks I want to work on....these will take a glue block for the face plate. Does the glue block have to be a hardwood, or can you use softwood for that? My apologies in advance for being an person on this stuff.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Fred
Most guys and me use sheetmetal screws with a square head drive which makes driving them and removing them easier.
The only thing not to use is sheetrock screws which will snap off (I know) if it is being driven in or taken out.
On face plates I do not used the plastic washer since I want the metal to metal contact. There maybe some who do tho. That is how I did 100% of my work before I got the big lathe and it is still how I start all of my bowls.
I do use glue blocks and use thin CA glue. If it is a big piece I use newspaper with wood glue on both sides and wait 24 hours.
Hope this helps
Arlin
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Bestwoodtools makes a faceplate for flat bottom screws. Sheet metal types will do just fine. No tapered woodscrew types or oval base sheet metal types. They countersink the hole on the face so that the wood won't push up from the effects of the coarse thread, which is a nice thing that keeps you from having to do it to the wood.
The washer is to protect you from yourself. If you're the kind who screws the faceplate on by turning on the lathe, or fails to re-tighten after allowing deceleration to loosen a turn or two, you'll need it.
You may use softwood, but hardwood - not necessarily HARD wood - is preferred because it has a lot of diffuse-porous varieties that won't split on the annual rings. I like bass, which is soft, you could certainly use tulip-poplar as an equivalent. Second are soft maple or cherry.
Do you plan to single-mount turn, or do you have a chuck or the desire to make ad hoc chucks for reversing and gluing?
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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I have a chuck ( a Talon with several jaw sets) and I hope someday I'll be able to make jam chucks and the like, but right now I have my hands full with the current task. I can't imagine turning on the lathe to screw the faceplate on, though I guess I could see someone doing it. Thanks to all for the replies, need to run to the box store for some screws.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Sounds like your plan should be turn, reverse, hollow, owning a chuck and all. Wouldn't by chance have a set of pin jaws with that Talon? Great way to start things, if you do.
Even with a faceplate or chuck, plan on using your tailstock as much as possible. LOTS safer that way.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Fred, these are all questions that have been asked before. You are not the first to ask them, nor will you be the last, and good questions. Here is a video clip I did on mounting things on the lathe. Just don't use plywood for a waste block... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KHkkws9lWArobo hippy
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I rarely use a faceplate for smaller blanks. I use a Woodworm screw for my Nova chuck. Works like a charm IMO. Check it out. Woodworm
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I use square drive wood screws like from McFeely's. I pre-drill holes for the screws so they don't break going in. Most of my bowl turning is on cured / dried exotic woods, and I don't want to risk the screws cracking the wood or even worse, breaking inside the wood (which has happened). I usually put the faceplate on the top of the bowl, then, when I've shaped the outside and turned a tenon, I remove the faceplate, reverse the bowl, and use a chuck to hold it. I then balance out the outside again, and proceed to hollow out the bowl. Then sand. Final step for me is to then reverse it once more and turn off the tenon. I use a longworth chuck to hold the bowl when turning off the tenon.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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When I do use a face plate I use hex head sheet metal screws #12. I purchased sets of four lengths when I started. Most of the time I use my Nova pin jaws as MM stated; makes quick mount for anything up to 12". All you need to do is drill a 1" hole and it makes no difference if it is pith or bark side. For over 12" I often use the wormwood screw made for the Nova powergrip jaws. It is longer to fit the jaws and the larger diameter of the jaws(4" vs 2") give a larger mating surface for the top of the jaws. If you are not familiar with these methods/terms Mike Peace has an excellent video on almost all "holding" methods. About 1.5 hours total. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUXil-5dEeo
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Bump for a thread with loads of good info.
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