Installing a Shelix Head on a Delta 22-580 Planer - PIC HEAVY

[AHill]

After about a week of discovery. I have FINALLY managed to successfully install a Byrd Shelix spiral cutterhead with carbide inserts on my Delta 22-580 2-speed lunchbox planer. Many of the Delta lunchbox planers are similarly designed, so these instructions might work on other models. No guarantees!

And, a shout out to all the members here that post pictorial tutorials. It is a time consuming process.

I purchased my Shelix head from Holbren. Great service! The head is packed in very heavy cardboard, and wood blocks protect each end of the cutterhead. The left side bearing is installed. The right side bearing is loose in a box. You'll see why later. Included in the box is a screwdriver handle and a torx hex head insert to remove and/or rotate the carbide inserts. Also included are several spare carbide inserts. Nice touch!

So, first, some suggestions, warnings, and disclaimers:

-Download or copy a parts list from ereplacementparts.com or a similar website. Not entirely necessary, but it does help if you damage a part in the process. Just note that there are many parts for the 22-580 that are obsolete. If you damage one, you're on your own.

-Take pictures as you go. Take pics before and after removal of parts. Take closeups of fasteners or details.

-Have an organized space to keep removed parts. Place fasteners with parts that are removed. Try to keep similar parts in the same location.

-Clean as you go. It’s amazing how much debris collects in nooks and crannies. Before vacuuming, MAKE SURE loose parts are secured. I accidentally sucked a spring into my shop vac and ended up removing the bag and fishing it out with a magnet. Messy.

-Resist the urge to remove parts that don’t need to be removed.

-The entire process should be performed while the machine is UNPLUGGED.












































I recommend a slight change sequence of the assembly process.

1. Install the guide rails.
2. Install the raise/lower chain guard.
3. Install the guide bar tube and guide bar.
4. Install the cutterhead lock and spring.
5. Install the cutterhead pulley.
6. Install the poly-v belt and re-tension by rotating the motor and tightening the motor bolts.
7. Install the drive pulley cover.
8. Re-attach the height tape to the frame.
9. Install the cutterhead lock bar tube.
10. Install and tighten the cutterhead lock bar.
11. Install the side covers.
12. Install the right and left top covers with the top roller.
13. Install the depth stop knob.
14. Install the height adjustment knob.
15. Install the cutterhead lock knob.
16. Install the chip deflector and dust collection plenum.
17. Install the top cover plates.
18. Recalibrate the depth/height indicator.
19. Test by standing to the side of the planer without running a piece of lumber before feeding lumber.

I hope this all helps. I tested mine with some rough cut curly maple. Probably 90% of the tearout is eliminated, and the surface is silky smooth. The other big benefit is the noise is GREATLY reduced.

One other warning. I cannot emphasize that you DO NOT have to remove the gearbox housing to accomplish this installation. I did, and it added at least 3 days to my process. The gearbox has bushings that act as spacers between the inside and outside plates, and if you remove the entire assembly, you will more than likely liberate a ball bearing that serves as a detent for the speed adjustment. In order to reinstall the ball bearing, I had to remove the motor (more fun!).

[barryvabeach]

Allan, masterful post. I know how long it takes me to clean up one or two photos to post them here, I can't imagine how much time it took to label all the photos, and get them in order with the text, but it was worth it. I have a lot of trouble visualizing things when it is just text, but your write up solves that problem.

[cputnam]

GREAT Post! I imagine Martin will have already tagged this for his annual bump list. If I had a Delta planer, I'd be clipping this into Evernote. I have the Dewalt 735 and the idea of doing all that scares me. Very little that I have disassembled ever works again.

[Girk]

Great post, Allan! I have a 22-580 as well, and it has been a good planer for the past 6-7 years. I've been thinking about upgrading to something with a Shelix head. I have 220 in my shop and I really don't like the noise of the lunchbox. So I'm curious as to why you chose to add a Shelix head to your lunchbox rather than upgrading to a 15" or some other planer.

[AHill]

Girk said:

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Great post, Allan! I have a 22-580 as well, and it has been a good planer for the past 6-7 years. I've been thinking about upgrading to something with a Shelix head. I have 220 in my shop and I really don't like the noise of the lunchbox. So I'm curious as to why you chose to add a Shelix head to your lunchbox rather than upgrading to a 15" or some other planer.

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I chose to upgrade primarily for cost reasons. A new Grizzly G0453 with spiral cutterhead is $1700, plus shipping. Rikon and Woodriver make a spiral cutterhead lunchbox planer, but the inserts are HSS, not carbide. The Shelix head was $447. A used 15" planer with a spiral cutterhead is as rare as hen's teeth around here, then I'd have to figure out how to transport it. The cost of a used 15" planer plus upgrading is still 2x the cost of my upgrade. I bought my 22-580 for a measly $359 brand new. Storage is also a premium in my garage shop. The 22-580 is mounted on a custom-built cart with internal storage. My 22-580 and my oscillating spindle sander are both mounted on bases that slip onto the top of my cart. If I ever have the luxury of moving and getting a larger shop, I will consider upgrading to a 15" planer.

[dg152]

One thought about the chain at the base of the planer. If it needs to be removed try using a bicycle chain remover. It's a little devise that pushes a chain link pin out so the chain can be pulled apart. The cost for these tools is usually in the $10 range.

Great post! I used a 22-580 for many years and only recently moved up to a Jet 15-inch planer with a Shelix head.

[AHill]

dg152 said:

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One thought about the chain at the base of the planer. If it needs to be removed try using a bicycle chain remover. It's a little devise that pushes a chain link pin out so the chain can be pulled apart. The cost for these tools is usually in the $10 range.

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I thought about it. The chain actually uses a cotter pin bent around a pin in the removable link. I didn't feel like trying to find a unique sized cotter pin. The cover still fits, and I used duct tape to seal the holes that remained after my snipping. Since the chain is under the base, it's not likely it'll see much dust. I've owned the planer for 10 years, and the chain was about as pristine as the day it came out of the factory. The sprockets are attached by socket head screws. I just couldn't lock the sprockets to get enough torque to break the fasteners loose. Hence my destructive method.

[Arlin Eastman]

Allen

Should the belt be replaced too while it is apart?

Arlin

[AHill]

It wouldn't hurt to replace the belt. They are not exactly inexpensive ($22.77 from ereplacements). In my case, the belt looked perfectly fine. No noted deterioration or cracks. Poly-v belts are notoriously durable and reliable. Unless you see some deterioration, no need to replace the belt.

[BloomingtonMike]

Great thread!!