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Most "latex" paints are designed to be cheap and easy to apply to things like walls and not have stuff sit on them. Under relatively low pressure—e.g. books siting on them—they will flex and flow. Putting another coating of whatever type on top will not mitigate this problem. You need to remove the latex and put a good finish on. You may want to put a good color on and follow with a clear durable topcoat.
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I've had no problems with SW Pro Classic waterborne acrylic enamel on a built in cabinet I made that we store lots of china in. It can be tinted any color you want.
John
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Go to a real paint store and ask for a non-blocking waterborne enamel.
For what you want to do, I would just buy a rattle can of spray paint. Use a Rustoleum or Krylon.
Test the paint on scrap.
Howie.........
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I like Minwax oil based poly over flat latex. The flat latex dries very fast and has good tooth for the poly. Remember that the finish will be a bit warmer with the poly overcoat. Very, very durable.
This is a table top I made of two layers of 3/4" MDF. The edges were treated and covered with One Shot gold (nice stuff). The top was a latex flat finish rollered on with a short nap roller. I top coated with 3 coats of Minwax Poly. It is a lightly used table otherwise I would have gone with 4 coats. I use just 2 coats for vertical surfaces and 3 or 4 coats for horizontal surfaces.
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Thanks for the good information everyone. All very good ideas.
Mike
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Use a waterborne alkyd enamel from the get go and you shouldn't need to topcoat with a clear finish for most applications. Ben Moore Advance and SW Pro Classic are both excellent choices. I used the Pro Classic two days ago through the Earlex 5500 and I was quite impressed. I'm happy with either or but the Advance is cheaper for me. Using a "wall paint" on a wood project is a recipe for disaster. You need a hard enamel when dried and cured. Nothing worse then solid wood doors or cabinets that have layer upon layer of a latex wall paint all over it.
