#13
After checking my left tilt Jet cabinet saw with a bessy splitter I determined my splitter is off by 1/32 to 1/16 th (I was having resistance when I hit the splitter). What is the best way to fix this? Is shimming the blade a good way to go and where could I get a solid shim? Other options? Thanks
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#14
I use a very hi tech method -- a slight tap with the hand in the direction it needs to go.
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#15
RocketRod said:


I use a very hi tech method -- a slight tap with the hand in the direction it needs to go.




Yep, leave the blade flat, or your problems will just be beginning in most cases. Grab a straight object, and lay it along the blades side, use that to bend, tap or align the splitter to true. If it is a stock splitter many of them are glorified aluminum foil.

I congratulate you on using a splitter it is the number one way to avoid kickback, and as such is a big safety move, but if you find your splitter is one of the cheaper variety, you have many options available to replace it, some are pretty inexpensive. Tell us, do you also use the blade guard? That matters in which options will work best for you.
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GW
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#16
I don't know that particular splitter but is there no way to shim the splitter? Ken
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#17
I don't know what particular splitter you have but I would first look into adjusting the splitter's mounting bracket in lieu of shimming the saw blade. I have the snap on biese splitter and though it's been years since I installed it, I'm pretty sure there was a way to make small alignment adjustments. Also I have to ask, is your splitter a standard blade kerf (.125") splitter and you might have installed a thin kerf blade?

Johnet
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#18
jestrada said:

Also I have to ask, is your splitter a standard blade kerf (.125") splitter and you might have installed a thin kerf blade?

Johnet




I haven't seen an answer to this question. The Biesemeyer removable splitter is full kerf. I don't think a thin kerf version was ever offered. If the OP is using a thin kerf blade, that is most likely the problem.
Bob
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#19
TK blades have been specialty made for a long time, but in general use it's only been the last 10 to 15 years they have really sprung up as a choice. With that in mind any saw that predates that time period could have a problem. The guy I got my General 350 from couldn't understand why his saw guard quit working for him???? He had a WWII TK blade on it. I don't think he even knew.

The way the OP had asked the question I had assumed he had changed nothing, and it used to work ok. I suppose that is a questioned to be asked? Did this just occur after putting on a new blade?
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#20
In John White's power tool setup book he recommends using a pair of 12" scales (steel rulers), one along each side on the blade. Be sure not to have the teeth touching the scales. Makes alignment a snap. You could use anything straight that would fit between the teeth of the blade.

g
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#21
Don't shim the blade unless there is no other alternative. The splitter mounting bracket almost certainly has an adjustment feature. If that doesn't get you all the way there you can add a shim on one side or the other of the splitter.

John
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#22
Dutchboy said:


After checking my left tilt Jet cabinet saw with a bessy splitter I determined my splitter is off by 1/32 to 1/16 th (I was having resistance when I hit the splitter). What is the best way to fix this? Is shimming the blade a good way to go and where could I get a solid shim? Other options? Thanks




Is it really a Bessey, or is it a Biesemeyer? I have the latter, and it is laterally adjustable. I haven't fooled with it in a long while, but I think it was a matter of leaving the mounting bolts slightly loose and using the available slop so adjust the offset. It wasn't especially difficult. I used a long straightedge placed against the left, and then right, sides of the blade (raised as high as it will go), and adjusted the splitter to clear both. In any case, align the splitter to the blade.
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Aligning the splitter


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