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Never had a problem with it. Hand planning results in a silky smooth surface. It also sands really easy, which makes it easy to leave an uneven surface if your not careful.
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Butternut is pretty soft and with a Janka hardness of just 490 it makes a lot of pine look like it's on steroids. Sharp tools/cutters/blades are a must, or like soft pine it will fur up on ya a bit. It's a go with the grain, rather than against it kinda wood.
Be patient and try different directions and sharp tools, once you get it going it really does shine up nice. I think it has more natural luster than Walnut, and I consider that a high sheen wood.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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Location: Oakdale, MN
I had a similar issue.
I found a scraper with a fresh hook worked best.
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
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It's commonly available around here, and rarely used for the reasons you've described. I can ONLY achieve a tear out free surface by scraping with heavy sanding.
I believe that while not all boards are created equal, most of them suffer tearout too readily to be considered as a primary wood.
I put in my store, hoping to make replacement kitchen cabinet doors from it - but it's so soft that rough handling leaves marks.
I've got kids in my house, so rough handling is a daily occurrence.
I consider this stuff good for toys, and little else.
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Kiln dried butternut is harder than air dried. The Shakers produced some butternut furniture so it seems a viable furniture wood. Sharp planer and joiner blades should help.
Paul from the beautiful mid-coast of Maine (USA)