Gunsmithing Workbench Top Finish ***PICS ADDED***

[titanxt]

I have made a workbench for gunsmithing purposes and the top is made of a piece of oak butcher-block. Don't let the "butcher-block" give you the thought that I need to use a food safe, cutting board like finish as there will be no eating on this one...

I plan on using a bit of poly on the top to provide protection, but I am thinking of applying some kind of oil first. Any suggestions on what I should use? I have a new can of Waterlox, but that's too $$ to use on this. I thought about linseed, but would rather use some kind of oil/varnish combo. What would you use?

Thank you!

Andy

[JR1]

Nothing, a film finish will chip and crack, and is unnecessary. If you feel that you must just use either BLO or better polymerized Tung oil. Oil varnish mixes just have all the problems of BLO and varnish both.

[Steve N]

Not trying to shove you out of the boat, but I know 5 Gunsmiths. None of them are especially interested in the look of their benches top, cause the work can mess it up. 4 of them cover the top with 1/8 hardboard with the gritty side up, to catch loose screws, and the other one uses cardboard.

[Scoony]

I clean my guns on my woodworking bench and I always lay out newspaper or brown paper before doing anything.

I would finish the bench with a mix of BLO, varnish, mineral spirits, then use Hardboard on top. Bench remains good looking, and the hardboard absorbs all the bashing, oils, and solvents.

[titanxt]

I already have a cleaning area that is separate from this particular bench. This bench will house a stout vise and be where the fitting takes place. I have a hardboard covered area that I built a while back that houses my reloading and cleaning components.

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This is a picture of the bench I have just built for assembly and fitting.

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As far as appearance goes, I have to have a clean, well organized, protected area to work. I will have to finish it with something rather than leave it bare.

Thanks!

Andy

[jteneyck]

I would apply the polyurethane of your choice and deal with the inevitable chips and scratches when they annoy you too much. That might involve a good cleaning with MS and then soap, followed by a light sanding to feather out the chips and scratches, and then a couple more coats of your finish. If it gets really bad, you can always strip, sand, and start again from scratch.

John

[JR1]

As you feel compiled to apply a finish I would avoid oil/varnish finishes and go with a good waterborne like GF EnduroVar or CrystaLac Super Premium and as John says count on occasional repairs.

[Dan Moening]

Quote:

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This is a picture of the bench I have just built for assembly and fitting.

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Assembly/fitting of ... firearms? cartridges?

I suspect that the bench will have some protective cover over it to protect the firearm anyway, yes?
If so, what's on the bench shouldn't much matter in terms of finish.

OTOH, if you are going to be doing any cleaning on that bench then the bore cleaner/solvents/etc could easily damage a poly surface.

I think if you wet-sanded in some BLO (or whatever you have around) you would create a smooth hard surface that would protect against those solutions more so than a film finish.

Or as others have suggested, place a piece of tempered hardboard over it and replace as needed.

[titanxt]

No cleaning on this bench. Just gunsmithing - fitting and assembling of parts. Why no oil base finish? I am not sure I am following the reason as to why you would not use and oil/varnish.

Thank you!

Andy

[Howard Acheson]

Why do you feel that your need to apply an oil? Any oil based finish contains more oil than any other material. Additional oil provides no benefit.