Can't find a post about lube for cast iron tool tops

[bennybmn]

Hi all,
I searched I swear.... I thought I remembered there being a post recently about someone using something like a Teflon multi-use lubricant on their tool tops, instead of paste wax. Does this ring a bell to anyone? It may have been something else, not sure. I also thought it was recently, and I was searching 3 months back in woodworking, power tools, and home improvement sections. I generally use wax, but I need to treat my band saw table this weekend, so I thought I might try something new.
Thanks!!!

[jussi]

I use T9 Boeshield plus pastewax. I've also seen people use bostik topcote. Finewoodworking did a test but don't remember their top choice.

[Rick L]

http://www.slipit.com/prodline.html
This stuff works well.

[Herb G]

Rick L said:

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http://www.slipit.com/prodline.html
This stuff works well.

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+1 for this stuff.

[AHill]

Do you want a lube or a rust preventer or both? Boeshield is primarily a rust preventer (that's what it was invented for), but it does have some paraffin in it that also lubricates. Paste wax may fill some pores, but doesn't necessarily provide as effective rust prevention.

[bobs64ford352]

I can't remember which wood mag had the article, but I switched from paste wax to crc 3-36 corrosion inhibitor for all my bare metal surfaces after reading a comparison test. It tied for top spot with another product, don't recall that either. I picked up a 1 gallon jug from amazon for $36 shipped (looks like it's $28 now) and I still have over half a jug after a year and a half. I've been pretty happy with it.

Bob

[TGW]

In vocational school 15 years ago I was taught to not use lubes containing silicone as they were said to interfere with many glues and finishes.
There we used teflon spray. On my own machines and metal bodied handplanes I have always just rubbed with a piece of candle wax when the friction becomes too bad. That is cheaper yet just as good.
My workshop is heated so rust isn't much of a problem in there. On the machines that are kept in unheated premised outside the main workshop I use Simonitz car wax. The oldfashioned hard variety that has to be rubbed in.

If you work a lot of resinous wood the resin may build up on the tables and increase friction. I have found alcohol (ethanol) to be the best resin remover. I just put a little alcohol on a rag and rub away the resin.

I use to say that this non-edible industrial alcohol is the only beverage stronger than weak beer yet allowed anywhere near my machines.

Good luck!

[bennybmn]

Thanks guys. I tried some teflon spray last night. I hit it with WD40 and green scotch brite on my palm sander and there's some stains that still haven't come out, but it's smooth and fairly slick now. I cleaned it with mineral spirits first too, but that kind of leaves a film... what's another good thinner to use on the cleaning side? Just alcohol?

[Admiral]

With apologies to the father in "My Big Fat Greek Wedding," put some Windex on it. I use Zep Window cleaner from Home Depot, spray bottle with gallon refills, cheap. Ammonia in it is good all around cleaner in the shop as it is somewhat of a degreaser, followed by paste wax on the top of the iron, seems to work for me but I don't have humidity problems in my basement shop.

I also use it to lube sandpaper when cleaning up old handsaws.

Great movie by the way, was on the other night.

[bennybmn]

Very good idea. Didn't think of that. Mine felt like it had some waxy build up, or even old cosmoline on it, hence the mineral spirits. But windex makes a lot of sense.