Possible upgrade to a Sawstop - questions

[dlgWoodWork]

I have the potential to upgrade top a Sawstop table saw. I am looking at the 3hp PCS cabinet saw with 36" rails. I currently have a Ridgid TS3650. I have used the 36" rip capacity enough to go with the 36" rails on the new saw.

1. For Sawstop owners, would you consider your saw "the last tablesaw" you will need to buy?

2. I have a router table built in to my Ridgid table saw. Is there a good option to do this with the Sawstop? From the info I have seem, the far right side of the table on the Sawstop with the 36" rails has a melamine top past the cast iron wing. Could I put a router in that? I don't mind to do some building of this part.

3. I currently use 40 tooth Woodworker II thin kerf blades. Will these work with the Sawstop riving knife? Or will I need to get full kerf blades?

4. Any recommendations on where to buy the saw? Any current deals?

Few more points :
Yes, I have 230V in the shop (the Ridgid is set up on 230V)
My main reason for the upgrade is safety (no need to try and convince me otherwise, thanks )
I am a hobby woodworker, but a busy one. My tablesaw is definitely the workhorse of my shop.

[ruffcutt]

The answer to thin kerf blades is in this.

http://www.sawstop.com/support/faqs

The SawStop safety system is designed for use with standard 10” blades with kerfs from 3/32” to 3/16”. Blades with kerfs much thinner than 3/32” should not be used because those blades might not be strong enough to withstand the force applied by the brake when it activates. As a result, those blades might deform and stop more slowly in the event of an accident, resulting in a more serious injury. Blades with kerfs much thicker than 3/16” are heavier than standard 1/8” kerf blades. Therefore, those blades should not be used because they may stop more slowly than standard blades in the event of an accident, resulting in a more serious injury. Similarly, stacks of 2 or more 10” blades should never be used on your SawStop saw as the combined weight of the blades may be too heavy to stop quickly. If you need to use a blade with a kerf thicker than 3/16”, use an 8” dado set with the optional SawStop 8” dado cartridge. The dado cartridge is designed for use with 8” dado sets up to 13/16” wide.

[fredhargis]

I bought an ICS last November to replace my Unisaw. Yes, I consider them lifetime saws...though in my case (67) almost anything might be considered a lifetime saw. . The SS extension table is made more like a torsion box without a bottom on it, you may have to finagle to get a router into it, or make a new one. Not sure about the TK blade. The riving knife on mine is .09" thick, but that may be a little tight on the TK, someone here will chime in. The price will be the same wherever you go, they have specials in November, but it's extra stuff like blades or mobil base.I bought mine on line, since any B&M store would be a 70 mile + drive (one way). You will love it, it's at least as well made as any of the others (Euro saws excepted, IMHO) and the SS CS is better than any I've seen. Sounds like you're considering the 3 HP model?

[barnowl]

dlgWoodWork said:

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...

2. I have a router table built in to my Ridgid table saw. Is there a good option to do this with the Sawstop? From the info I have seem, the far right side of the table on the Sawstop with the 36" rails has a melamine top past the cast iron wing. Could I put a router in that? I don't mind to do some building of this part.

...
I am a hobby woodworker, but a busy one. My tablesaw is definitely the workhorse of my shop.

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While i do have a SS, and coincidently went from a Ridgid to it, I used to have the router set up on my Ridgid, using the Incra system.

However, I long ago went to a dedicated router table, and kept the two tools independent of each other.

It was far more convenient and far more productive.

[R Clark]

I have the 3HP PCS with 36" fence. I have a dedicated shop building, and have the physical plant to support a larger saw from both the space and power point of view. That said, here are my answers to your questions.

1. Yes, I consider this saw to be the last saw I'll buy. Hopefully, I have many years of woodworking ahead of me. I have had this saw for over three years and done many things with it from building outdoor projects like a large pergola to cabinets to Hal Taylor rockers to small keepsake boxes.

2. I don't have a router installed in the extension table, but have considered it. I think I would tend to build an extension table that would be beefier than the stock extension table.

3. I use Freud thin kerf blades with no significant issue. Sometimes the riving knife provides a bit of resistance as the leading edge of the work piece makes initial contact, but it's never been a real problem.

4. Pricing is set by the manufacturer, so other than the occasional factory deal on accessories, there are no real deals to be had, at least on a new machine. You might luck into a good used machine somewhere.

One other thing you didn't ask about...dust collection. Unless you already have a dust collection method, you'll want to add one, so you need to consider that as well.

Good luck.

[BloomingtonMike]

I own the ICS. Have since 2006. This is the last North American cabinet saw I will buy. It saved the tip of my thumb on Dec 23rd, 2014 so I am happy to have it for sure. Put two hours on it today and it is just as great as day one. Folks have put cast iron benchdog router tables on the PCS.

[gboot]

I purchased the exact same saw a few months ago, it replaced a Jet contractor saw with an undercount router in the extension. I see it as the last TS I will buy. At the time they were offering a free mobile base, pricing seems to be fixed regardless of source, I purchased mine through a Woodcraft store and for $250 they delivered it about 50 miles to my basement.
The first thing I did was put an under mount router in to the extension. I added a couple of lateral support pieces more to box in the router for dust collection purposes , the extension seems quite sound. BTW not enough room in the 30" fence for a router. Good luck with your decision.

[Bill Lyman]

1. I have a 2007 Industrial model and it is probably the last table saw I will ever buy: (i) I am 75 years old and (ii) the Sawstop machine is a superb piece of equipment and is concerned about my safety. I say it is probably my last table saw because I am a technical junkie and who knows -- someone may build a better mouse trap -- but they have not done so yet.

2. Don't know, did not need to try. I have one on another table saw and like it a lot for that particular shop.

3. A very experienced wood worker recommended I use thin kerf blades with my 220V Sawstop, but did so long after I had purchased full kerf. If I were you, I would call Sawstop. Great customer service. I use thin kerf with my 110V Delta, and think they work great. No experience with them on the 220V Sawstop.

4. Most woodworking tools seem to be fair traded and retailers cannot sell at a lower price. Can't say I have ever seen one on Craig's List.

5. I agree that if it weren't for last minute, nothing would get done.

[macpiano]

I went from a Ridgid 3650 to the Contractor SS with the 52 inch fence. I built a router table in the extension from plans out of Fine Woodworking. I would consider your potential purchase as lifetime. I consider mine to be lifetime.

I bought the shark guard with the 4 inch opening because I have a 3.5 HP cyclone and I suck the dust from above and below.

I'd sell the WWII on the forum here and get the full kerf one. I own 2 of the WWII and used the first one seemed like forever so I had a big project and bought a new one so I could send one out while I use the other. The new one didn't seem to cut any better than the one I used forever.

Hope this helps.

[Bill_de]

I went with the 1.75hp PCS w/36" fence, replacing a 1.75hp Craftsman 22124 hybrid. The Craftsman was going to be my last saw, but decided that (for me) the safety feature was worth the upgrade. I have no regrets.

I use the tablesaw mostly for ripping and use full kerf Freud blades.

Although I prefer a free standing router table, I don't foresee any issues with mounting a router in the right side table. You may want to beef it up a bit.