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I've installed new and used for both new construction and remodel/repairs. I got hurt twice many years ago, so I work methodically and am very respectful of the spring's power. When removing, I always remove tension on the springs first. In most cases that means blocking the door in the fully open position first, with vise grips on the track, "just in case". Torsion springs can be unwound and sometimes, for extension springs, the cable will slip off the top pulley. (you can count revolutions of torsion springs or measure the extended length of extension springs to re-install.) With a helper, we slowly lower the door. Then I start at the top and work my way down. Re-install in the reverse order. If new tracks are to be installed all the panels and hinges can be installed (in their proper orientation/location) with all but the top rollers. (we use a few 16d nails against the ends, angled into into the framing to keep them from falling over). The vertical track can then be rotated onto the rollers and lagged to the framing. All that's left is the horizontal tracks and the cable/spring assemblies, which can take a little time to get square and adjusted properly. It should be relatively easy for an average woman to open and close the door before an opener in installed.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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Location: Wapakoneta, OH
I need to replace one on my barn, and intend to use that routine that A squared described. the new one will have the torsion springs that get tensions with a drill. (EZ Set Torsion springs)
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.