Undercounter Dishwasher Problems

[Steve Friedman]

It seems that after 30 years, our dishwasher has gotten the better of the laminate-covered particle board kitchen counter top. The underside of the overhang is started to shed sawdust. We're not yet ready to replace the counters and would like to attach a strip of something to the underside of the overhang.

I can't remove the dishwasher without removing the counter because the hardwood floor was installed after the dishwasher and the dishwasher is land-locked. I have no doubt that the counter would never survive being removed.

So, all I can do is try to preserve the underside of the overhang. It's only 2-1/8" wide x 24" long. Four questions:

1. Would you just paint on a coating to seal it? Epoxy? Polyurethane? Glue? Something else?

2. Would you try to glue something on? Laminate? Aluminum flashing? Something else?

3. If glue on, what kind of adhesive? Epoxy? Contact Cement? The stuff that's on the back of PSA laminate?

4. If glue on, does it make sense to size the surface with thinned adhesive first? That area is no longer smooth and I thought it would be a good idea to size it first.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

[Robert Adams]

Oil based paint is the standard. There are foil strip that are also used. Unfortunately very few seal the bottom of the countertops and the sides of the cabinets. That steam out of the top of the door takes a toll on particle board.

Epoxy will strengthen it and protect it. Pain to do though.

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks Robert. Paint sounds almost too easy, but I like easy. Working upside down to glue on a strip of laminate was going to be interesting. I have some oil paint at home and may try it tonight. Certainly can't hurt.

Steve

[blackhat]

I would do a couple coats of paint and make sure to go a foot or so past the DW on each side. I give customers the same advice.

[Steve Friedman]

blackhat said:

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I would do a couple coats of paint and make sure to go a foot or so past the DW on each side. I give customers the same advice.

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Thanks for that. The particle board is molting in front of the sink as well, so I was going to do the entire overhang. Using paint makes that much easier than trying to cut strips of laminate and glue them on, especially since the overhang doesn't seem to be consistent from one area to the next. Never noticed that until I started measuring this morning.

Would you try to sand down the area that's already rough?

Steve

[MKepke]

I used a piece of buytl rubber flashing (e.g. for windows)and a few staples.

Oil paint seems like way too much trouble :-)

-Mark

[Steve Friedman]

MKepke said:

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I used a piece of buytl rubber flashing (e.g. for windows)and a few staples.

Oil paint seems like way too much trouble :-)

-Mark

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Paint sounds almost too easy to me.

[bottd]

I have not tried this but faced with the same situation I would be tempted to apply multiple coats of this - until it no longer soaked in - http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/main...d-hardener then oil based paint.

[Steve Friedman]

bottd said:

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I have not tried this but faced with the same situation I would be tempted to apply multiple coats of this - until it no longer soaked in - http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/main...d-hardener then oil based paint.

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Thanks,

I have had some of that stuff around for years and have never used it. There's so little wood in the stuff that's on the counter, I can't imagine what it would be hardening. But I guess it can't hurt. If I was going to do that, I have CPES and other wood preservatives floating around that has held up fine on outdoor furniture.

Steve

[Scouter]

If you can't see the underside, I'd use (and did) JB Weld for wood. It comes in a putty form that you can mold and squeeze into where the PB is coming out, then sand to smooth.