Chest lid construction options

[jock cameron]

I am thinking of making a version of Hannah's inlaid chest that appeared in the June 2013 issue of Popular Woodworking. Before I start on this I would like some comments on my options for the construction of the lid.
The lid is a single piece measuring 9/16"T x 20 7/8" L x 13 5/8"D. The front and side edges have a bead and ogee design. The 2 ends also have 9/16" square x 13" lid cleats fastened to the bottom of the lid.
So far the widest piece of Sapele I can find is 11 1/4 wide. While this is wide enough for the sides and back, it's not good for the lid. I'm not sure if I will be able to find a board any wider.
I've come up with a couple of options assuming that the 11 1/4" width is what I have to use.

Option 1. Use 2 pieces edge glued on the long side. Total width would be 13 5/8".
Option 2. Use 1 piece 11" wide and add, on all 4 sides, moulding strips to make up the designed length and width. These moulding strips would be 1 5/16" wide.
Option 3. Use 2 pieces edge glued on the long side to make up a lid 13 5/8"W but only 18 1/4" long. 2 moulding pieces, each 1 5/16", are added at each end.

My preference is for option 2 but I'd like your thoughts, as well as any other options I could consider.

[Steve N]

[jppierson]

Just thinking outside the box, no pun intended. There is an other option that only requires math.

It seems to me that when Hannah's box was first created, the dimensions of the box were set by the size of the stock available. You could do the same thing based on the maximum width of the sapelle you have on hand and scale the rest of the box down. That would be approximately 85%. How true do you want to be to the original design? Do you want to build an exact replica, or create something similar but is your own?

[jppierson]

One other option, would be to change the lid design and make a paneled (raised or not) lid. This would be similar to having the edge banding on all four sides. The difference would be that the edge banding would be serving a function other than extending the material. It also keeps you from having to create a breadboard end due to cross grain of the end bands.

[JGrout]

jppierson said:

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One other option, would be to change the lid design and make a paneled (raised or not) lid. This would be similar to having the edge banding on all four sides. The difference would be that the edge banding would be serving a function other than extending the material. It also keeps you from having to create a breadboard end due to cross grain of the end bands.

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[jock cameron]

Thanks to all for their comments.
At present I do not have all of the stock. I have one more yard to check their stock, which is quite extensive, so I may be able to find something large enough to make the lid in one piece. If not, I'll have to modify something.
Since my skill set is such that I really need a set of plans to work with, the option of making the depth (front to back) fit the size of my stock is something I thought about. To be on the safe side I would have to redraw the side section and plan views to make sure I didn't miss something. Doable but not sure if the overall proportions would look OK.
I've tinkered with veneering large surfaces without much success. I don't have a vacuum bag and hence I still haven't finished the top of a tea table I'm building. Would prefer a solid wood lid for this chest project.
If I have to go with option 1 I will have to enlist the aide of someone from my woodworking club who has a jointer. Not sure if I want to try out my recently purchased #7 (thanks Admiral) for my first hand jointing, although I could start with scrap wood and see how it goes.
Not sure I understand the details of the paneled lid construction. The picture from JGrout shows a molding on the face that would interfere with the placement of the escutcheon. This in turn would require a significant change in the size of the line and berry design.

[JGrout]

don't look at the molding profile that is not what I was working toward

the RP in the top however makes the top far more stable allows your stock to be narrower and your molding profile and escutcheon can still be executed properly you also do not have the issues with cleats and movement is accounted for

[jteneyck]

It might be blasphemy, but at only 9/16" thick I'd be strongly thinking about veneer on a baltic birch panel with solid wood on the edgs to create the moldings.

John

[Paul K. Murphy]

I'm just getting acquainted with this piece now from online photos, so I don't know too much about it.
The pictures that I'm looking at have a molded top edge, but not what you described. What I'm looking at has a quarter round with a filet. I think that's what you're talking about. None of that is any big deal though.
I like your option number 1 best. Can you do it in such a way to make an invisible joint? Do you have color matched and grain matched stock? If you do, you should be able to make a single panel that looks like one plank.
Just out of curiosity, is the sapelle you found quartersawn or plainsawn?