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I have never used Seal-a-cell, but I am wondering if that would blotch like BLO does. Another thing to try is wiping on a thin coat of pure tung oil. It is not as dark as BLO and if your wiping on a thin coat, should not blotch, but that needs some testing.
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I like shellac as it really brings up the grain without blotching.
Ruby is particularly nice on cherry but Thai seed or Garnet look good as well. If you can spray shellac is very easy to spray. If the table is not going to be hard use two or three coats of shellac will be fine—it's very easy to repair. If you want to topcoat Arm-R-Seal will work but darken the color further. Any of the GF waterborne finishes will work without changing the color except for EnduroVar which has a slight amber color.
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Location: Southern California
I've had luck with a spit coat (<= 1# cut) of shellac well sanded back after drying. Then a quick wipe on coat of oil (as a colorant) wiped as each surface is coated. Then top coat with garnet shellac. If you want something more durable then the waterbased top coat (Endurovar) thoughts are said to work very well.
The spit coat of shellac seems to seal up the exposed end grain more than long grain and still remains after it's gone off the long grain.
TEST, and then TEST some more
Thanks, Curt
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Location: Lewiston, NY
My experience is the same as Scoony's - oils blotch on curly cherry. Doesn't matter if it's BLO, Seal-A-Cell, etc. I would wipe or spray on a thin coat of dewaxed shellac and then go to Arm-R-Seal. Or just try Arm-R-Seal by itself.
Test whatever you choose on scrap to make sure you are satisfied.
John