10-20-2013, 04:12 PM
Lots of folks only have a 14" bandsaw similar to my CI Delta. When it comes to resawing, many see such a saw as limited in capability, both by the 6" height limit as well as it's inability to adequately tension even a 1/2" blade. But by making a few simple upgrades to my BS I can now resaw pretty wide stock and even thin veneers with confidence. Here's how.
Here's a photo of my 14" Delta as it was set-up today for resawing some 5" wide white oak veneer.
As you'll see I have a riser block installed. It's actually a Powermatic riser, but I got a good deal on it and it fit the Delta with only a couple of modifications. Other key upgrades are the 1.5 HP motor that now drives the saw, and an Iturra high tension spring. The 1.5 HP makes it possible to more easily resaw stock greater than 6" thick, and the Iturra spring allows me to put at least 10,000 psi on a 1/2" blade. That's no where near what most blade manufacturers recommend, but that's all these saws are capable of and the good news is it's enough.
Speaking of blades, I'm now using Olson MVP bi-metal 1/2 x 3 tpi blades for resawing. They really wouldn't track very well right out of the box. It was only after I resharpened the 1/2" one on my chainsaw grinder that I was able to get it to track straight. It was sharp, but I'm guessing it wasn't equally sharp on both sides. Anyway, it cuts beautifully straight now, and the fence is set parallel to the miter slot. IMO, allowing for drift just means something else is still not right. The guides are Cool Blocks with the standard bearings behind.
There are two other key features worth mentioning. I installed short sections of some old Unisaw rails I had so I could use the fence on the saw. I added a supplemental tall fence to the stock fence. Also note the Rockler feather boards, stacked up two high in the miter slot. They apply force to hold the work against the tall fence. To keep most of the sawdust out of the saw I fabricated a dust collection system that is just a piece a 1-1/2 or 2" (can't remember, but my standard vacuum hose fits nicely up into it) PVC elbow that fits up under the table, around the blade, and is held onto the saw with a metal bracket that fits over the right bolt of the lower wheel cover. The vacuum doesn't get all the sawdust, but certainly more than 75% or it.
Here's a photo as I was sawing the white oak veneer today. Each veneer was 0.10" thick and very consistent top to bottom and front to back. Maximum deviation was on the order of 0.005".
And here are the veneers I cut from the two boards.
These veneer were only 4-1/2 to 5" wide, but here's a photo of a 10-1/4" bird's eye maple veneer I cut a few weeks ago. It was no more difficult, although the feed rate might have been a little slower.
A bigger BS would be nice, but it's not really necessary for resawing in a small shop. I hope some find this helpful.
John
Here's a photo of my 14" Delta as it was set-up today for resawing some 5" wide white oak veneer.
As you'll see I have a riser block installed. It's actually a Powermatic riser, but I got a good deal on it and it fit the Delta with only a couple of modifications. Other key upgrades are the 1.5 HP motor that now drives the saw, and an Iturra high tension spring. The 1.5 HP makes it possible to more easily resaw stock greater than 6" thick, and the Iturra spring allows me to put at least 10,000 psi on a 1/2" blade. That's no where near what most blade manufacturers recommend, but that's all these saws are capable of and the good news is it's enough.
Speaking of blades, I'm now using Olson MVP bi-metal 1/2 x 3 tpi blades for resawing. They really wouldn't track very well right out of the box. It was only after I resharpened the 1/2" one on my chainsaw grinder that I was able to get it to track straight. It was sharp, but I'm guessing it wasn't equally sharp on both sides. Anyway, it cuts beautifully straight now, and the fence is set parallel to the miter slot. IMO, allowing for drift just means something else is still not right. The guides are Cool Blocks with the standard bearings behind.
There are two other key features worth mentioning. I installed short sections of some old Unisaw rails I had so I could use the fence on the saw. I added a supplemental tall fence to the stock fence. Also note the Rockler feather boards, stacked up two high in the miter slot. They apply force to hold the work against the tall fence. To keep most of the sawdust out of the saw I fabricated a dust collection system that is just a piece a 1-1/2 or 2" (can't remember, but my standard vacuum hose fits nicely up into it) PVC elbow that fits up under the table, around the blade, and is held onto the saw with a metal bracket that fits over the right bolt of the lower wheel cover. The vacuum doesn't get all the sawdust, but certainly more than 75% or it.
Here's a photo as I was sawing the white oak veneer today. Each veneer was 0.10" thick and very consistent top to bottom and front to back. Maximum deviation was on the order of 0.005".
And here are the veneers I cut from the two boards.
These veneer were only 4-1/2 to 5" wide, but here's a photo of a 10-1/4" bird's eye maple veneer I cut a few weeks ago. It was no more difficult, although the feed rate might have been a little slower.
A bigger BS would be nice, but it's not really necessary for resawing in a small shop. I hope some find this helpful.
John
