Joining butcher block countertops

[Cooler]

I am going to install two butcher block counter tops in an L-formation for my kitchen.

One leg going to be 25" wide and it will end butt against a 42" wide counter. This ends up being an end-grain joined to a face grain joint.

I am planning on using some biscuits (not glued) to assure vertical alignment, and four of these bolts to join the top: http://assets.rockler.com/media/catalog/...2-01-1000_2.jpg

I am not planning on using any glue as I think it will cause splitting on the end grain.

Will this work? Is there a better way? I am not going to miter the two boards as I don't think I can get a satisfactory geometry by doing so.

[Splinter Puller]

I mitered mine using a router and straightedge. I then routed a grove in each face to set a spline and after installation I attached them to each other with recessed countertop bolts from below.

[Cooler]

Splinter Puller said:

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I mitered mine using a router and straightedge. I then routed a grove in each face to set a spline and after installation I attached them to each other with recessed countertop bolts from below.

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It would make an awkward looking miter with one leg being 25" and the other 42".

[Splinter Puller]

Cooler said:

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[blockquote]Splinter Puller said:

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I mitered mine using a router and straightedge. I then routed a grove in each face to set a spline and after installation I attached them to each other with recessed countertop bolts from below.

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It would make an awkward looking miter with one leg being 25" and the other 42".

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[/blockquote]

maybe if you bisected them the full 42" width. I had a similar condition but I bisected the miter so an equal number of boards on each leg were cut. This left a remainder on the wider leg. Each leg should see exactly the same expansion and contraction where they meet with this method. Each board meets the miter and continues around the corner which I think looks better also. You can sort of make out where the miter is on my countertop.

[Cooler]

Splinter Puller said:

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[blockquote]Cooler said:

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[blockquote]Splinter Puller said:

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I mitered mine using a router and straightedge. I then routed a grove in each face to set a spline and after installation I attached them to each other with recessed countertop bolts from below.

---

It would make an awkward looking miter with one leg being 25" and the other 42".

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[/blockquote]

maybe if you bisected them the full 42" width. I had a similar condition but I bisected the miter so an equal number of boards on each leg were cut. This left a remainder on the wider leg. You can sort of make out where the miter is on my countertop.

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[/blockquote]

That looks nice, but it is more than I am up for. I do like the radius at the end and I think I will incorporate it in my installation. I did plan on adding an edge treatment: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012JI...arch_detailpage

[jasfrank]

A sliding dovetail should work fine.

[meackerman]

how much movement do those bolts give you? over 25" it seems like the wood would move some and if the bolts are too confining it might cause an issue....maybe a slightly larger hole for the bolt part to pass through is all that is needed.

[jteneyck]

I think the butt joint as you propose will give you the least problems. A long mitered joint is fine with composite materials but with solid wood it's doomed to open up as it contracts in the Winter. I would consider a spline for alignment rather than biscuits. Biscuits allow some vertical play; a well fitted spline won't. It's easy to cut the spline slot with a winged router bit with bearing. The bolts you propose to use should work fine, but you might want to consider Zip Bolts. The advantage is they tighten with a 5 mm hex drive; just chuck it in your impact driver and you can really tighten it. As mentioned, make the dado the bolt shaft sits in over sized to allow the joint to slide and all should be well. It you want the butt joint section to stay centered, don't leave any slop for the Zip Bolt at the center.

John

[atgcpaul]

I have some IKEA countertops to install and I plan to do the same thing as you. Dominoes instead of biscuits and only glued to one side for vertical alignment and the countertop bolts to hold them together.

Not sure about your countertops but the IKEA ones have a slight chamfer on the edge. This means when I butt one up to the other, there will be a valley. I plan to rip off that chamfer on the edge of one board and also do a small miter where the one board meets the other--kind of like how'd you would do a beaded face frame.

[Alan S]

A question for those of you more familiar with counter tops. I would assume that water will get into the joint at some point, and with wood this could be a problem. Would you recommend finishing the joint before assembly to reduce water absorption? If so, is it worth something like epoxy, that will cut down water absorption more than an ordinary finish?