Show me your...

[Herb G]

Drill press tables. I'm thinking of making one from MDF.
I already have the T-track but I need some ideas on building one.

Thanks for reading.

[Pirate]

No pics, but I would put a t track on top of the fence, for 2 flip stops.
Movable center insert. Lots of possibilities there. Anyone got ideas, with pictures.
Thinking of improving mine.

[Bill Lyman]

Here is my version. Table, fence and drawer.
Note the round sacrificial insert.
Caveat: the press shown does not have a rack & pinion lift, and the table & drawer are heavy, so I use a bottle jack to raise and lower the table.
I have a 2nd drill press that does have a rack and pinion lift. The table & drawer are a little heavy for the lift. I would like to forego the drawer to reduce weight, but it is really, really handy, so I suffer the convenience and weight of the drawer. :-)
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[Routerman]

Jig plate Aluminum.
Heavy but without temp/humidity sensitivities.
Moreover, flat, tap-able, fixture-able and equal thickness.

[fredhargis]

I did this one which I think was in Shop Notes (just that table, I can't remember where the cabinet part was published). One thing unique about this table is the ability to raise lower from the front...which is why I built it. There is a set of nylon bevel gears mounted that make the 90º turn (from Amazon, no less). The plan also had an extension on the locking part I didn't install. While I think this is a clever design, if you switch you DP back and forth from the woodworking table to the OEM one, it's fairly unhandy.

[CARYinWA]

[Herb G]

WOW! You guys have outdone yourself on those units.
Keep 'em coming.

[mikefm101]

Mine below.

Things I would change:

1. Move the knobs on the fence further apart. I didn't plan ahead, and if the table is high enough the DP handle will sometimes bump into the right hand knob on the fence. To get around it I unscrew a handle from the DP, but its still a nuisance.

2. T-Track on the fence for stops. I suppose by now I could have retrofitted that, though.

3. A notch in the fence to eliminate the chuck bumping into it. This gets in the way when I am drilling along the edge of a thin work piece.

4. The insert. I used a square one, realizing later those offset round ones are far more practical. I don't even bother replacing the insert anymore, I just use a sacrificial piece of wood below the work piece for backup.

No drawer below, but there is a wall cabinet behind for bits.

Mike

[arthropod98]

mikefm101 said:

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Mine below.

Things I would change:

1. Move the knobs on the fence further apart. I didn't plan ahead, and if the table is high enough the DP handle will sometimes bump into the right hand knob on the fence. To get around it I unscrew a handle from the DP, but its still a nuisance.

2. T-Track on the fence for stops. I suppose by now I could have retrofitted that, though.

3. A notch in the fence to eliminate the chuck bumping into it. This gets in the way when I am drilling along the edge of a thin work piece.

4. The insert. I used a square one, realizing later those offset round ones are far more practical. I don't even bother replacing the insert anymore, I just use a sacrificial piece of wood below the work piece for backup.

No drawer below, but there is a wall cabinet behind for bits.

Mike

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ok, this one flipped me out for a second . . . looks just like mine!

[bennybmn]

I have the one from Harbor Freight. Works ok... Main thing with any of them is it may obstruct the crank on your height adjustment, so beware. I had to modify the bottom a tough to mount to my small craftsmen DP, but it works great. Some of the home made ones posted look fantastic and probably not hard to build!@