Saw guys; Will this shear work?

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

I've been on the lookout locally for a metal shear in my price range for almost a year, but I've been striking out. I want to cut some saw plates, as my neighbor can get lots of spring steel plate of just about any variety from his work. I have a Foley retoother, setter and filer to do the rest of the work.

So, I'm now ready to just buy an inexpensive shear to get by until I can find a vintage or good modern throatless Beverly shear.

Will this one get me by for a bit? Will I be able to do 20" cuts if I cut halfway and then spin around the metal and come from the other end for the second half?


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/p..._200309556


Thanks for the help.

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

Dang, I just realized the one I linked to in the OP was only good for straight cuts.

How about this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Baileigh-MPS-3-Mul...s=beverly+shear

Although it appears to not be able to handle thick enough plate.

[blackhat]

Keep looking. A clean cut really calls for a stomp shear

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

I want to be able to do curved cuts also and want a bench top model. My floor space is getting rather sparse.

[Timberwolf]

My choice
http://www.cjponyparts.com/eastwood-meta...CFVY2gQodFmAB1g

[RonB1957]

Timberwolf said:

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My choice
http://www.cjponyparts.com/eastwood-meta...CFVY2gQodFmAB1g

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Yep, that's the one. Perhaps not as robust as the original but nothing ever is.

[Isaac S]

Gregory of Sherwood Forest said:

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Dang, I just realized the one I linked to in the OP was only good for straight cuts.

How about this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Baileigh-MPS-3-Mul...s=beverly+shear

Although it appears to not be able to handle thick enough plate.

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I don't have that one, but the specs say it's good for up to 0.118". If you are only using this for saw plate, that is plenty of capacity.

I use a throatless Beverly (not this style, but the one for straight cuts). It works well, but is not as nice to use as a stomp shear. The cuts need to be cleaned up, and it distorts the offcut side. If that side is waste, it's not a big deal, but if you want to use it for something else you will probably need to trim it back a bit. I don't know if that is the case with the one you linked to or not.

If you are only doing outside curves, you can use the straight shears to nibble away at it. If you need to do inside curves, then what you are looking at is probably the way to go.

[RonB1957]

I can't really add much more than what has already been said. I have a small shear like the one you posted. You can get them up to 12". I sold my 12" and bought an 8" that works just fine. What you want is a vintage Beverly shear, or a look alike. Other wise a vintage stomp shear is the way to go for long straight cuts. Or even nibbling off outside curves. Large hydraulic shears are the ideal shear for the 0.042 and thicker. I should also point out any shear can and often does distort the metal to some extent. Just the nature of the beast.
By the way. I am just waiting to hear back from the machinist on those ratchet bars.

[Pedder]

Looks much like the one I use:






Cheers
Pedder

[JoethePro]

If you do end up going Northern Tool, let me know immediately as I've got some coupons that I can retrieve from the garbage can.