Burnishing the wood as a finish

[TomFromStLouis]

I am considering burnishing a piece by sanding to a high grit as a finish. I cannot help thinking that a wax or coat of something is still a good idea, but maybe I am just conditioned. My piece is of persimmon, but I think any hard close grained wood like maple or some exotic would be candidates for this. Do you vote that burnished only will age best in light to moderate use, or add something on top like a touch of oil or wax?

The last time we touched on this topic it was more about how far to sand for an oil finish. This time I am asking the other way around: I WANT burnished, to a very high sheen. I realize anything on top of this might have adhesion issues, so you would put nothing at all?

[Paul K. Murphy]

I don't dislike the idea at all.
I think the decision rests on what type of artifact it is. If it is a carved persimmon saint, five inches tall, raw wood with a burnished finish might be a great idea.

[Scoony]

If it was to be handled, I would want to burnish it with some sort of wax. You can actually spit-shine wood as you would leather.

[MichaelMouse]

"Case-Hardening" is more important that grit in producing a burnished piece. Take your average P400 piece of maple, spin up a naked cloth wheel and press hard. You'll see the wood burnishes nicely. The heat closes the surface pores whose edges (diffract) bend light or harbor sanding dust which scatters it.

The sanding mops sold by people like Klingspor produce a surface that's two grades "finer" than the rating of the paper when properly heating. Give 'em a try with carvings, they're even pretty easy on the detail.

[Cooler]

A customer of mine had his office "paneled" with 1" x 8" knotty pine which was sanded but not finished. The lower portion got soiled pretty quickly so it was re-sanded and a clear coat was applied.

I would worry that if left unfinished it was get soiled too. I think wax would offer a level of protection. When I highly sanded a piece a while back it didn't take stain well. So if you are going to stain it check that out first.

[JR1]

Burnishing looks nice with the right wood; but burnishing makes staining or other finishing futile if not impossible. Wax provides no protection for the wood except for handling, then a lot of folks like the way that it feels.

[Howard Acheson]

Burnishing the wood provides no protection or durability to the surface. Why do you want to use this treatment?

[TomFromStLouis]

We are talking about a chair. I am thinking that use over time would age the piece in an attractive way. If the wood pores are closed to finish then they ought to resist dirt too. The hardness of the wood will I hope enhance durability

[Cooler]

TomFromStLouis said:

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We are talking about a chair. I am thinking that use over time would age the piece in an attractive way. If the wood pores are closed to finish then they ought to resist dirt too. The hardness of the wood will I hope enhance durability

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In an enclosed display case perhaps. But exposed to hands, dust and dirt it will quickly get soiled and you won't be able to wipe off the mess. So you would have to sand off the dirt. Eventually you will end up with a pile of sawdust and no chair.

[Richard D.]

Tom,
I sand my chairs to 500 with an Abralon pad which burnishes the wood. I still use clear Danish Oil wiped on and off with paper towels. The burnished wood never looks "finished" to me but it feels great which is also important for a chair.

I've never had adhesion problems and there is an added plus in that you see any unsanded areas before applying the oil.

I fully expect to see this information repeated in the future by JR1 in the first person.