Band saw Wheels Out of Round?

[DogwoodTales]

My 10" Delta works well for my limited use of it, but it also limits what I can do with a band saw. So, like others on this forum, I'm also in the beginning stages of looking into getting a better band saw, but that's another discussion.

At any rate, the short of it (this post) is that I used a dial indicator to measure how far off each wheel is from being perfectly round - each measured from one side of the wheel to the opposite side of the wheel and back around to the starting point. (does this make sense?)

The greatest distance off round is nearly 10 thousands on the bottom wheel and about 5 thousandths on the top wheel
Anyway, I have no idea how far off round is acceptable in band saw wheels.
Perhaps it's just memory fixed in the rubber tire from the band saw tension and just the rubber needs to be replaced.

Your thoughts?

Thanks for your input!

[John Mihich]

You have started the quest for justifying a new tool. There's no need to do that.

You have support here to encourage here to buy an upgrade.

So to make you feel justified. How in the world can that machine even function? I would go out today and get a new BS - at least a 14" one. Buy one that you can add a riser.

Well really. Don't know if those figures are with specks or not.

I remember having a 10" and just always needed something bigger for the things I was doing at the time. Now I am looking for a smaller one since I rarely use the big one.

[DogwoodTales]

How does it function? With some vibration of course
But it works.

The more I think about it the more it seems that the out of roundness is due to memory in the tires. I usually do not release the tension and being that this is a cheap band saw to begin with those tires are not the quality one would find in a higher end saw.
Looks like replacements start at about $20 each and on up from there for better quality.

Maybe I'll try this again over the weekend and register the indicator on the metal instead of the tire, so as to compare that to the tire.

Justification for a new band saw? I'll use whatever works with swmbo

If you were closer to Cincinnati I'd offer to buy your old band saw from you.

[JGrout]

If you are measuring anything except the steel rim on the outside the numbers given mean nothing.. even then unless you managed to align the wheels so they were both out at the same point I doubt it matters much when you consider the relatively slow speed they operate at

[DogwoodTales]

JGrout said:

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If you are measuring anything except the steel rim on the outside the numbers given mean nothing.. even then unless you managed to align the wheels so they were both out at the same point I doubt it matters much when you consider the relatively slow speed they operate at

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If the steel rim is round, then shouldn't the tire be as well?
Unless the tire is stretched unevenly or has flat spots (as I think mine has).
Nonetheless, I will try this again while registering the indicator on the metal instead of the tire.
I think on this model I might have to remove the tire to do this.

Good point about the wheel alignment. If the flat spots are not in line, then there should be less vibration than there would be if they are both on the same side of the band saw as they turn with the blade on.

With the blade installed there is visible vibration in the band on the left (up) side than there is on the right (down) side.
Without the guides to reduce the vibration (as on the right side) the band has visible vibration. The band is plenty tight too.

[JGrout]

not especially will the tires follow the rim but even though they are manufactured closely they are not perfect some tires even have a bump that can be seen and felt. those are the ones that make bands flutter.


And I would not remove the tire unless you have spares someplace .

that is how little this matters in the grand scheme of things.

[jteneyck]

Take the tires off and set up your dial indicator on the table or frame with the pointer on the OD of the wheel under the tire. The blade flutter you are observing could be as simple as having an amount of tension on the blade that causes some harmonic. Increase or decrease the tension a little and see if it goes away. Chances are it will and when it does the vibration will probably be less, too. Of course, you can have vibration with no blade flutter, too. But that likely will go away as you increase/decrease blade tension. If it doesn't something is out of balance - or out of round, as you asked about. One thing often overlooked is the drive belt. Old V-belts can get a set in them from sitting for long periods and will cause vibration. A new belt or a link belt often solves a lot of ills. Check to make sure the pulleys are tight on their shafts, too.

John

[Axl]

jteneyck said:

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Take the tires off and set up your dial indicator on the table or frame with the pointer on the OD of the wheel under the tire.

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And without reading the post right before yours that says "And I would not remove the tire unless you have spares someplace ."

[jteneyck]

Axl said:

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[blockquote]jteneyck said:

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Take the tires off and set up your dial indicator on the table or frame with the pointer on the OD of the wheel under the tire.

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And without reading the post right before yours that says "And I would not remove the tire unless you have spares someplace ."

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[/blockquote]

Guess I glossed over that. My Delta 14" the tires are not glued on, so they are easy to take off and put back on. Same on an old 12" BS I restored for a friend. If you want to get an accurate reading of the runout of the wheel itself you have to do that where the tire sits so you have to take it off. But I wouldn't take them off either if they were glued on and I had no spares. No argument there.

John

[Admiral]

Just get a new (or used) saw, keep the 10"! 😀