Laminating an outfeed table and table saw extension wing

[greatscott]

I'm in the process of building an outfeed table plus a new extension wing for my table saw as the current extension table has seen better days. The plan is to double up on 3/4" mdf and then laminate the top with Formica or some other laminate for both the extension table and outfeed table.

My question is do I need to laminate both sides of the mdf? I noticed my current extension wing is not laminated on both sides (it's particle board instead of mdf) but I've read somewhere that you should laminate both sides. A lumber yard by me sells 3/4" laminated mdf but it's laminated already on both sides but I'm concerned how it would hold up if I glued laminates together. I will add that I plan to put a router into the extension wing if that plays a role into whether I should laminate both sides or not. I was looking into Formica Microdot for the laminate and it's pretty expensive from Lowes at $82/sheet so I was hoping to either only have to laminate the top side or find a cheaper laminate to use.

Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Splinter Puller]

I've always laminated both sides when I've built shop tables and wings. I prefer to use HD particle board verses MDF for a substrate as this is what commercial countertop businesses use. PB seems to resist swelling a bit more. its cheaper and lighter too.

[JGrout]

Why laminate two pieces first off? it will make the router harder to install and the top will have to be cut to fit the mount.

secondly, most extension tables are only laminated on top mainly because they are secured with screws to a framework on the saw, that is how mine is and it has worked flawlessly for well over 25 yrs now

I also think you need to go to the yellow pages and find a countertop shop local to you and ask to purchase a scrap of laminate sized a bit larger than when your top is. You do not need anything fancy just a surface that can be waxed and smooth.

[Steve N]

JGrout said:

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I also think you need to go to the yellow pages and find a countertop shop local to you and ask to purchase a scrap of laminate sized a bit larger than when your top is. You do not need anything fancy just a surface that can be waxed and smooth.

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Mostly this.

BTW you will find a lot of scrap this way, or HTH, and interestingly enough none of it will have Formica on both sides. At least if it was done by a counter top guy. Hardwoods, and veneer, you bethcha. Formica, not so much.

[Splinter Puller]

Steve N said:

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[blockquote]JGrout said:

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I also think you need to go to the yellow pages and find a countertop shop local to you and ask to purchase a scrap of laminate sized a bit larger than when your top is. You do not need anything fancy just a surface that can be waxed and smooth.

---

Mostly this.

BTW you will find a lot of scrap this way, or HTH, and interestingly enough none of it will have Formica on both sides. At least if it was done by a counter top guy. Hardwoods, and veneer, you bethcha. Formica, not so much.

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[/blockquote]

Thats not true. Most commercial laminate will have backer laminate on the bottom. This is a cheap kraft paper looking brown. The only bare wood backed laminate I've seen is post formed laminate. This has the integral backsplash. Adding the bottom layer stabilizes the laminate and keeps it from warping. This is nice when you are making an extension that is only supported by the outer edges at the front and rear rail.

[JGrout]

must be a regional thing then. if it is tied down to something else one side is the standard

in the several western states I have done work in the only time I see both sides faced is exposed work like mudroom bays for ski gear.

past that no one does it

[Doug_H]

Scott

The rationale for laminating both sides is to avoid changes caused by unequal moisture on each side. The idea is that humidity changes might expand or shrink one side more than the other and warp the sheet. It would depend on conditions in your shop.

Consider making a torsion box or modified (single-sided) torsion box. I'd probably just use 3/4 MDF with a melamine coating (or plywood with a sheet of 1/4" melamine coated Masonite laminated on) with "stiffeners" underneath.

Doug

[Kreuzie]

Laminate 3/4" Baltic birch on all (6) sides to eliminate cupping of the substrate. Use real (solvent-based) contact cement.

See your local Habitat Re-Store for some really inexpensive laminate.

[greatscott]

Kreuzie said:

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Laminate 3/4" Baltic birch on all (6) sides to eliminate cupping of the substrate. Use real (solvent-based) contact cement.

See your local Habitat Re-Store for some really inexpensive laminate.

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Didn't think about Habitat Re-Store. I'll stop by the one near my house and see what they have to offer. Thanks everyone for the feedback/advice.

[Paul K. Murphy]

You can if you want to, but I don't think you need to.
I wouldn't.