What does everyone use for power sanding?

[shoottmx]

I need to add some type of powered sanding to my turning tools. I have corded and cordless drills. a right angle cordless with 1/4" hex and a cordless multi tool, any of which could be the power source.

Wondering what you all use?

Thanks, g

[J Lilley]

I use a small, 90 deg., die grinder w/air. I have a 2" and 3" backup pads from http://vinceswoodnwonders.com/store/ that work great. I keep the air turned down to about 45 or 50 psi and run the lathe around 300 rpms. I use this set up all the time now, it's easy and leaves a real nice finish.

[Steve K]

I use a Dynabrade RO sander
They are an awesome little sander but require a pretty good compressor to run.
I've kind of been thinking about investing in an Arbortech contour sander but haven't done it yet.

[MichaelMouse]

Flex shaft powered by a FHP 1725 motor from somewhere. Allows me to support the tool on the rest, not heft with my arm. Extremely handy for interrupted edge stuff, or spalted pieces with soft spots, since it doesn't move when there's no wood or soft spots passing.

I use the merit disks from Packard's for my primary sanding, and since pressure is light, I can use the same 150 or 240 for a couple three pieces. http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...ng-adiscs-power For 320, might as well go soft back, or sand with the bowl in your lap, along the grain. The flex edge are handy, but the act of flexing uses them up faster, almost as if they were hook and loop sheets on a soft mandrel.

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...Sand-1.mp4

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...Edge-2.jpg

[jerickson]

+1 for VincesWoodNWonders. Great service and great product. He has even thrown in freebies for me a couple of times, which is super nice. Check out his website for sanding tutorials too.

I use a power drill on low speed and sand with the lathe on 300-600 rpm, depending on the wood and grit. This works great for almost all woods.

This probably goes without saying, but power sanding does not make up for much poor tool work. I learned that the hard way. Once I got my tool work improved power sanding became a HUGE time saver.

[theeviltwinn]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-CHUCK-CLOSE-...0684373615

Twinn

[robo hippy]

The drill above is a 'close quarters' drill, or an angle drill, not a right angle drill. These are probably the best for getting down inside bowls. The only problem with them is that they are drills, and we use them as grinders. Light pressure and slower speeds (I never go above about 600) help the drill bearings and abrasives last longer. I get about 400 or so bowls from a drill before the bearings are shot. I think it is more how we use it than it is dust in the inside, especially if they bearings are the sealed type rather than the shielded type, but I do blow them out. I have tried random orbit sanders, and the reciprocating types, and they are fine for the polishing grits, 320 and above, but very slow for coarse grits. Pneumatic drills do work, but keep the compressor running non stop. I would think the screw guns would have a much more sturdy bearing set up, but most seem to run a bit slow, and the battery is heavy to hold up for more than a minute or three. I am seeing if I can find some thing else....

MM, what kind of maintenance do you have to do with your flex shaft? It should be easy to find a bigger motor that could drive larger discs, and get a mandrill of some sort.

robo hippy

[MichaelMouse]

robo hippy said:

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MM, what kind of maintenance do you have to do with your flex shaft? It should be easy to find a bigger motor that could drive larger discs, and get a mandrill of some sort.

robo hippy

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Buy a new one every 4-5 years - for me about 1000 pieces. Think they're 80 bucks now.

I don't like to use anything above 2" diameter, and 150 grit. At 60 grit even at that diameter you can still sprain your wrist if you try to press. LOTS of power in that 1/3 hp motor. I still have three of the 5 "starter set" 60s from 20 years ago. Surprising how fast a surface cleans up at 150, which is where I start as a matter of habit. If I start at 240, I sometimes discover a mistake that will cause a backtrack. You'll be the judge for your toolwork.

If you sand wet wood, you'll want to stay soft back and start at maybe 120 with open coat stearated. Otherwise - clogsville.

[AnthonyYak]

link

[Arlin Eastman]

Right now I do almost all hand sanding and enjoy it.

However, if I had a choice and not worried about money I would go the way MM said and use something like a fordom with a long shaft and it would be much easier to use and sand with.

Someday that will hopefully be a Christmas present next year and after that I will have to get the 1", 2" and 3" pads and paper which I think will cost as much as the sander.

Arlin