#21
Hey all, been away for a few months with my new job, but now that I've settled in I should be seen around these parts more regularly again.

I've had an 80's Craftsman Contractor saw for years, used it to rebuild my entire kitchen including cabinets from the studs out and a bunch of furniture and other projects, but it's always been a battle. The other day I went to do a 45* angle cut and the ways were locked up. I gave up, went to my computer, hit craigslist, and struck it lucky.

There was a 1946 Unisaw just sitting there waiting for me in beautiful restored condition (missing goose-egg natch). ($550, since I know someone will ask. Was hoping for under $500, but it was in such good condition I didn't begrudge him the extra few bucks.)
Had it in my basement less than 24 hours later, life is good.



Original 1hp Marathon bullet motor, original UniFence with the adjust knob (pre "jet" models), no cuts for DC (I'll probably put a plate on the front and replace the dust door with a DC connect so as not to cut into the cabinet).

I've wanted one for years, couldn't justify it as my saw "works fine... really." That tilt fail was just the last straw.

One question for the assembled, a 10" blade sticks above the surface of the table by 1/8" or so, is that normal on these? I'm used to blades fully retracting...

edit 3yrs later, broken photos added as attachments
"The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me." -Tony Konovaloff
"Have nothing in your house which you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful." - William Morris
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#22
Congrats! I used a few of those from that era when I worked in a cabinet shop many moons ago. I thought I was in heaven, as you couldn't even tell they were running if it was noisy, since they had nearly zero vibration. And even though it's an old-school fence, it was soooo much better than my dad's little 8" Craftsman from the 50's, and once you get used to how to work it, it can be very precise. I'm envious, even though I have a 90's Unisaw in my shop.

And no, that's not normal. Something is stopping the blade from retracting fully. It should go below the table fully. At least, every Unisaw I've ever used did, including that vintage.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#23
Congrats from me as well. Cool saw, I imagine there some dist packed into your mechanism somewhere keeping it from retracting fully.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#24
fredhargis said:


Congrats from me as well. Cool saw, I imagine there some dist packed into your mechanism somewhere keeping it from retracting fully.




It's super clean, so I don't think it's dirt pack.

Possible that he put it together a tooth off on the rack or something, it's not bugging me at the moment so I'll live with it until I get the urge to disassemble it. (I just got the table squared up... *chuckle*)
"The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me." -Tony Konovaloff
"Have nothing in your house which you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful." - William Morris
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#25
You can probably see what it is right through the insert opening, especially with the blade out.

(Said mostly because my interest is now piqued. )
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#26
My blade is very close to the top. It doesn't stick through, but it is not far from it.

Nice find on that saw. I often wish I had one of the older 110V motors for mine.
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#27
That's a beauty you found there. How many HP is the motor? I have a friend who bought one with a 1 HP RI motor and it's amazingly powerful; goes through 8/4 stock with no problem. I have a 1954 right tilt with a normal 1.5 HP motor and it's no more powerful, but it's still adequate. I had that same fence on mine when I got and it works OK but only OK. I replaced it with a VEGA Pro after about a year and it was a huge leap forward. I really don't see myself having to replace this combo now. Enjoy.

John
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#28
jteneyck said:


That's a beauty you found there. How many HP is the motor? I have a friend who bought one with a 1 HP RI motor and it's amazingly powerful; goes through 8/4 stock with no problem. I have a 1954 right tilt with a normal 1.5 HP motor and it's no more powerful, but it's still adequate. I had that same fence on mine when I got and it works OK but only OK. I replaced it with a VEGA Pro after about a year and it was a huge leap forward. I really don't see myself having to replace this combo now. Enjoy.

John



Yeah, mine's the 1HP RI motor, looking forward to seeing what a good 1HP will really do.

I actually have a VEGA clone on my old craftsman, but I dislike that the back of the fence doesn't lock on anything and can give when pushed. Not sure if the real VEGAs have that issue, but mine does. I'll be shopping for a deal on a Bies or a T2 or something.
"The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me." -Tony Konovaloff
"Have nothing in your house which you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful." - William Morris
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#29
I have the same saw, fence and motor. While the fence can be annoying sometimes, it works and works well. One of these day I will find a deal on good aftermarket fence but I have been saying that for several years now.

Your blade should drop at least flush to slightly below the table top. I would bet there is sawdust built up. If I remember correctly the stop is just a bolt and nut, so it should be a simple adjustment. It's not a big deal to pull the top and get to it, but you can probably come though the dust door but I bet it would be very awkward.
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#30
http://stores.renovoparts.com/1454-unisa...tor-cover/
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New (to me) Unisaw, after much wanting.


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