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If you have spray equipment and know how to use toners you could just clean the existing surface, lightly scuff sand it with 325 or 400 grit, and spray it with a shellac toner to get your cherry color. Then topcoat it with your choice of clear coat. Transtint dye in SealCoat shellac works great. If you know how to spray.
If you don't, now is not the time to learn. If that's the case, I think you have at least two choices. You could strip it with chemical stripper and then stain and topcoat in the usual manner. That approach is likely to guarantee success. Or you could try cleaning and scuff sanding the existing finish and applying a gel stain to get the color you want and then your clear coats. I've never actually done the later so I can't say with any direct knowledge how well that approach will work.
If you decide to strip it you will probably want to begin the refinishing by applying a coat of SealCoat shellac cut 50% with DNA to seal the surface and minimize blotching, which maple really likes to do. You should then consider dying it before applying the stain. That will give you a base color and make the staining step easier. For stain, I recommend you consider using SW's BAC Wiping Stain. It's unlike any stain you have probably used; great color and easy to apply and wipe off. You MUST spray the first coat over BAC Wiping Stain. If you don't have spray equipment you can just use rattle can shellac. Then you can apply your finish coats over that any way you like.
Hope that helps you in considering your options. There might be more; those are the ones I could think of.
John
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Steve,
If it were my project and the finish were sound, I would not strip it. John gave you a lot of good advice. I do not agree, however, that you have to apply toner by spraying. I have toned with a brush or even rag applicator many times.
Whether you strip it or not, you have to worry about residue from silicone applied over the years in the form of dusting aids, furniture polishes, etc. I'd wipe it down well with mineral spirit and then scuff sand uniformly with fine sandpaper as John suggested.
At this point I would apply a coat of dewaxed shellac (Sealcoat or Bullseye shellac in the aerosol can) Now you have a substrate that you can tone.
Now you can tone with Polyshades or Polycrylic. I would use the Polyshades diluted with clear varnish or Polycrylic tinted with Transtint or artist's acrylic paints. Be conservative. Don't try to go too dark with one coat because it will be hard to get a uniform tone. (This is probably what John was thinking about when he recommended spray application.)
I suppose you could use gel stain but like John I have never tried it for toning. Again, try it on scrap first. You would have to be careful not to leave too much on the wood or it might obscure the grain.
All the best
Doug
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John and Doug have given good answers. If the finish is sound you could tone it. I would also consider the possibility of glazing it, and I believe that's where I'd end up going.
Glazing and toning both require some skill, knowledge of materials, and the intangible quality of artistry. It takes a while to develop. To make a first attempt on a large cabinet is your choice.
The good part is that the desired color is best achieved incrementally. You won't be "Disney Brushing" the cabinet with a magic elixir that makes it look exactly like it's supposed to all at once. This allows you to minutely adjust your mix, your strategy, your application, etc. as required. The bad news is, knowing how to do that is a skill, like playing a musical instrument is a skill.
Question: "Can I make beautiful music with this guitar?"
Answer: "I don't know. Carlos Santana can."