Spray lacquer

[jerickson]

I am trying some spray lacquer for the first time, and I love the results, mostly. I have a couple questions for those of you who have experience with this finish (It's Minwax gloss spray lacquer.). It's on a walnut bowl, too.

1. How finely should I sand before applying the lacquer? I sanded to 400, and wondered if 220 would have allowed the finish to "grip" to the surface better.

2. Can I buff it? I have the Beall system. I've melted Poly by buffing before, and don't want to make that mistake here.

3. I have some NuFinish car wax that added a high gloss to wipe on poly before. Is it ok to use on lacquer? I also have Renaissance Wax I could use.

Sorry for the detailed post. I've tried googling the issue, and I wanted some input from some of you guys too. :-)

[badwhiskey]

You can buff, but let it fully dry first. Like a week.

Can't address your other questions.

[AnthonyYak]

Buff it slow, 1000 rpm or lower

[Arlin Eastman]

jerickson said:

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I am trying some spray lacquer for the first time, and I love the results, mostly. I have a couple questions for those of you who have experience with this finish (It's Minwax gloss spray lacquer.). It's on a walnut bowl, too.

1. How finely should I sand before applying the lacquer? I sanded to 400, and wondered if 220 would have allowed the finish to "grip" to the surface better.

2. Can I buff it? I have the Beall system. I've melted Poly by buffing before, and don't want to make that mistake here.

3. I have some NuFinish car wax that added a high gloss to wipe on poly before. Is it ok to use on lacquer? I also have Renaissance Wax I could use.

Sorry for the detailed post. I've tried googling the issue, and I wanted some input from some of you guys too. :-)

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I have not used Minwax spray but Deft and it really works wonderfully.

I always sand to 800 to 1000. Let it dry for 1 hour and spray again up to 4 coats and then let dry for 8 to 10 hours.

Then I use the Beal buffing at 500rpm and lightly buff it with Diamond unless it has runs or bugs in it and then I just sand it with 320 up to 1000 again. Then again I buff with Diamond and check it often to make sure everything is right in each area before using carnauba wax. When that is done I use the Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax.

Biggest thing about buffing it is not to get hot.

Arlin

[Angus]

When it comes to lacquer or any other finish I've used I've never had a finish "let go" because of lack of tooth. I'm not sure where that legend came from but it does run deep. A lot of my work gets sanded all the way out to 1200, 400 is the minimum and never had a problem with lacquer, varnish or poly.

Lacquer is ideal for buffing when cured, not dry but cured. But walnut is NOT the ideal wood for the 3 step process. If you use the first 2 compounds it will suck into the pores and the only way to get it out is by stripping it back down.

[jerickson]

Thank you for the very helpful replies, everyone!

[jerickson]

Angus said:

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But walnut is NOT the ideal wood for the 3 step process. If you use the first 2 compounds it will suck into the pores and the only way to get it out is by stripping it back down.

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Thanks, Angus. I made that mistake once with a walnut piece and white diamond. For a minute I didn't think I'd be able to save it! So sounds like a low speed buffing with tripoli and some type of wax or polish (other than white diamond) would be a good way to go.

[AHill]

Angus said:

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But walnut is NOT the ideal wood for the 3 step process. If you use the first 2 compounds it will suck into the pores and the only way to get it out is by stripping it back down.

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I've wet sanded and/or used pore filler with walnut, and that really does seal up the pores, making it a good candidate for buffing, even with the white diamond abrasive.