Well, that didn't work

[Kizar_Sozay]

I have three weather gauges I was going to mount in a piece of mahogany then frame. I have to drill 3 2-1/4" holes. Pull out the Forstner bits and the biggest I have is 2-1/8" (wouldn't you know).
Go dig through the hole saws and find the right size. Now where's the dang mandrel? Nowhere to be found.
Next plan. I pull out the adjustable arm circle cutter and set it for the right radius but it appears I'll have to go halfway and then flip the wood over to finish from the other side.

You have to go reeeall slooow with this. Anything less than a close shave and the drill press reverts to its designed purpose, spinning the workpiece about in a deadly fashion.

Shut the lights out and came in the house.

Decided instead of a solid mahogany mount, I'm going to make a lattice type mount where I can cut the needed diameter using several pieces. I can do that with a band or jig saw and have something whee the field background is decorative too instead of a solid piece.

Now, where's that mandrel?

[Mr_Mike]

If you have a rabbeting bit with replaceable bearings, you can use a smaller forster bit then route half the thickness to the correct diameter. Then, clean up with a normal pattern bit.

[Kizar_Sozay]

I think this is going to make me tackle something more imaginative than drilling three holes in a plank. Hanging on the wall it will look better if you can see through the field instead of just a piece of background. I'm certain I will eat up some mahogany, throw some missed cuts against the wall, and storm into the house before I'm done.

Just finished up a gate leg table to mount on the fence by the grille. Too late I realized you can't make a gate leg with the leg on the table. that's what you get for just working from an idea instead of a plan.

Oh, and I don't use that ratio of whatever formula. I lay it out so it looks proportional.

[jteneyck]

Use your adjustable fly cutter to make a 1/4" plywood template. Rough cut the hole in the workpiece with a drill and jigsaw. Tack or tape that to your workpiece and use a flush trimming router bit to make it perfect.

John

[Paul K. Murphy]

Quote:

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drill press reverts to its designed purpose, spinning the workpiece about in a deadly fashion

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If what you are drilling is long, put the extended portion to your left, not your right. This means that its baseball bat-like swing strikes the drill press column first, not the operator. I know this advice doesn't help produce better mahogany rain gauge holder things. I do know that, generally speaking, this produces fewer hurt operators when things go wrong. Clamp the work, blah blah blah, but put the long side left if you can.

[fredhargis]

I think you must have a camera in my shop, that's how things usually go for me. Eventually you'll come up with a solution.

[MichaelMouse]

I go half plus with holesaws, then flip and cut from the other side. Makes it easier to get the plug out.

Cleanest suggestion is to use the fly cutter - scary though it is - to make a pattern to rout with collar. Spiral bit leaves little fuzz and no burn.

[Steve N]

Everybody knows Amazoo can get it to you tomorrow Then any time you make a clock inset, you are ready to go. 2 1/4" isn't that uncommon

[Kizar_Sozay]

I'm going with the 2-1/8" Forstner and finishing up with a router with a rabbeted bearing bit then a flush cut. Cut the hole, then use the rabbeting bit for the first half depth, then switch to a flush cut once I've established the correct size with the rabbet.

I'll use a handheld router and lock the work flat in a vise.

[CLETUS]

Seems a lot easier to buy the correct forstner bit.