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For me I generally use the chop saw for rough, and the TS with a sled for final. I swap blades on my TS for rip, cross cut, etc. So using a cross cut designed blade, and the sled I can get squeaky tight cuts with little effort. Chop saws have way too much movement to be accurate. BS really isn't designed to do cross cuts, especially on longer work, support is such an issue there. Plus most blade sets will leave your final cut with a grossly wavy edge which you would have to shoot, for it not to be gappy.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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What Steve said but also sometimes wood will warp while ripping boards in two. Leave the cut a little oversize, rejoint and rip to final size. That way you end up with a straight board. Ken
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I'd say it all depends. When cutting sheet goods I often cut twice as its difficult to be extremely accurate with a full sheet on the saw. For end cuts I generally cut once on the SCMS as I use a good blade like a Forrest chopmaster. For rips I cut once if I'm using a powerfeed but when hand feeding I might cut twice if I think the wood may move some.
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I'd like to answer this question, because the concept is an interesting and important one. Your question isn't specific enough to reasonably address though.
In the simplest of terms, yes, I often will rough out stock and later trim to finished size. Sometimes I use the same tools and/or methods, and sometimes not. It really depends on the situation, what I'm trying to achieve, or what type of problem I'm trying to overcome.
I'll give one example that may illustrate the point. The example is a specific example and applies to one particular workshop task. I often construct cabinet casework in the face frame manner. When I determine how much stock of any given width I need, say 50 LF of 2 1/4" stock, I rip out the approximate required material. I will have set the saw at 2 3/8" or 2 7/16". I then run the material through the planer edgewise to do two things. One, the stock comes out clean, square and free of saw marks. Two, the stock is now the exact width. I will usually have a scrap board that I run first and measure to determine when the width has been achieved. I have a fixture for the planer to keep the stock vertical and right throughout the planing operation. If I'm being very particular, I determine the width this way:
Since 2 1/4" is the desired dimension, four times that equals 9". The scrap will be given its presumed last run and four small cut offs made with an end of it. The width of these off cuts is measured together, and any error will be multiplied by four. It's easy to get the last run on the actual working stock just right this way.
Planed edges on face frame stock mean great, tight joints. Planed edges also mean practically no sanding as well.
There are other examples too numerous to name, that is just one.
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For precision cuts in plastic and aluminum, I first band saw then follow with my rectangle maker.
And for wood, (totally contrarian), I use the band saw and sand to net length (on a precision edge sander).
I use the planer to hit the width. (Interesting question.)
Rectangle Maker
Pat Warner
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I have two different thoughts:
With full sheets of ply, I have cut them using a circular saw then final sized them on the TS.
The second is that with furniture projects, I always prep the lumber leaving it a bit oversized. I sticker, stack, and let it "relax" out for some time. I will then re-prep the stock as if it were rough, bringing to final dimension.
This process means that my projects do not move in unexpected ways.
Ralph
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Okay, I understand a little better now and may even be able to incorporate a few new ideas. By asking the question, I got to see a number of processes that involve equipment I don't have access to, or that I have not had the need to learn. Thanks for the enlightenment.
