Another 8" jointer question

[Wild Turkey]

Rehabbing a Rockwell-Delta Jointer, 37-315 I believe (4 coats of paint on everything, including data tag)

I'm going to put a Byrd head on it

I have my choice of three motors -- 1, 1-1/2, and 3 hp.

I think the three is overkill (and it needs some work) but the 1-1/2 is a 1725 rpm and needs a big pulley to make the correct speed of the cutter head.

How badly will I notice the difference between the 1 and the 1-1/2 hp motors?

Will the large pulley cause problems when starting?

[Steve N]

A rebuild story for the same jointer he sounded like he was happy with it.


Mikes tools parts list Shows both the older, and newer versions of the 37-315. Possibly Motor is on another sheet, or maybe it had choices? Was trying to find what was specked for it.

My Grizz 8" much newer comes packing 3HP GO490XW-8"

[mike4244]

I would go with the 1-1/2 hp motor.The larger pulley won't make any difference in my opinion.I have a 7" or so pulley on a 6" jointer with 1/2 hp motor 1725 rpm's. Been using it for at least 40+ years.
mike

[iclark]

I am kinda rusty at this, but...

Isn't a 1-1/2HP set up with a 3:2 pulley ratio effectively the same HP as a 1HP set up with a 1:1 pulley ratio?

IF (big if) that is correct, then a 1HP motor running at twice the speed of a 1-1/2HP motor will have more torque at the cutting drum if the pulleys are set up so that the drum is running at the same speed in both cases.

Did I get that right?

[Arlin Eastman]

On my Grizzly 6" with spiral cutter head they put a 2hp on it so if it is 8" you will not go wrong with a 3 hp anything lower then 2 hp would be underpowered I am thinking.

Arlin

[Bulldog 8]

I have a Yorkcraft 8" jointer with Byrd head and a 1 1/2 HP motor. Before putting the Byrd head on it, I could get it to bog down when face jointing wide stock. HP has never been an issue with the Byrd head. No help with your 1 or 1.5 decision, but in my opinion, I'd never need a 3 HP on my jointer.

[fredhargis]

I have a 15" 3HP Delta planer with the Byrd head, and it has no problem with available power....I think 3 HP being plenty for 15" likely makes it overkill for 8" (not a bad thing, just not needed). My 8" Jet jointer also has a Byrd (apologies to Joe) and a 2HP motor, it also seems to have plenty of power, I suspect 1.5 HP is just fine.

[paarker]

I have a dewalt 735 planer with a Byrd head in it and I am sure the motor is not even close to 1 1/2 HP. The planer works great with a much smaller motor.

[jteneyck]

I may be forced to go with a Byrd head on my MiniMax FS35. It has about a 4 HP motor on it with a 14" straight knife head, and if I try to take off anything more than about 1/16" on a piece of 10 - 12" wide hard maple it bogs down something awful. I'm glad to hear you all say the Byrd head takes a lot less power because my patience is wearing as thin as the cuts I have to take with it.

John

[Steve N]

jteneyck said:

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I'm glad to hear you all say the Byrd head takes a lot less power because my patience is wearing as thin as the cuts I have to take with it.
John

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Bunch of tiny little nicks, coming from an angled orientation, instead of 3 very long/wide collisions each time they pass by. Results in a lot less force applied to the board at any one time, and with this easier cut, you also get a great reduction in noise. Win Win. I know what Joe thinks about Jointers, but these things rock for either a jointer, or a planer. I think some of his thought is the cost is not recouped by a hobbyist. The other side of that coin is changes to your cutting head are so simple "Even a Caveman can do them" while correctly setting new sharp knives on either a jointer or planer are not as easy for a guy who rarely does them than he would believe. I really think it is for this reason, more than the superior cut, and lower Db ratings are why they are so popular.

The downside is you hear of this "scalloped" finish? I've been using Byrd's on DeWalt 735" for several years, and now on an 8" Griz jointer, and I DO NOT see these. I do however only take very shallow passes with either of these tools. I believe if those seeing the scallop backed off a bit the scallop would go away. A glued up top coming off the planer only requires a minimal sanding to look absolutely flat to me. It's so minimal I've never felt the need to dress a top down with hand planes. Unless you have a nicked cutter, turn it and go along your way.