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Somehow tonight I got a bug up my a$$ that I need an HVLP system. I think it would be handy for an upcoming project, and since that project is an LOML request, it should be easy to justify.
So, I started with Rockler because I've noticed that W'netters have mentioned them and are happy with them. Wahoo! They are on sale for $109! Then I got to thinking, "Why do I need that little Compressor when I have a big upright one in the corner of my shop?" So then, I started looking for HVLP spray guns and found that I can get even really good ones (like Graco) for less or a little more than the Rockler system.
So, my question is: Is there any advantage to getting a self contained system, like the Rockler, over using an HVLP spray gun with my compressor? Any specific recommendations for either would be appreciated.
Bob
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I never heard of Graco being "really good" except the high end commercial stuff. Graco is typically in the House Painting or latex painting business.
If you have a compressor and know it's CFM rating in the 40 to 50 psi range (it should be printed on your compressor), find some choices that match that range.
If you intend to shoot a wide variety of finishes (thick and thin), find something that either comes with a couple different needle and tip sizes (1mm to 1.9mm for instance) or look at buying a couple guns with different sized tips and needles. I'll bet you can do that under $100.
You should also look into an air drier and oil separator for the outlet of the compressor. They can be had at reasonable prices also. Do keep your tank drained.
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You could get the HF spray gun and try it out before moving to something higher dollar. Too many folks have reported really good results with the HF gun to dismiss it, and spraying is as much technique as it is equipment. Using your compressor would mean you need a moisture trap to keep whatever from getting into your finish. But the HVLP conversion guns work very well once you determine the setup. The turbine systems are also good. With them the air is considerably warmer and that could be a problem with some finishes like NC lacquer...though I can't it's made much difference to me. With the right turbine and nozzle setup you can spray thicker viscosities, but might as well start a little cheaper and see if it's something you want to stick with it. I think the HF gun that gets the accolades is the purple one.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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fredhargis said:
You could get the HF spray gun and try it out before moving to something higher dollar. Too many folks have reported really good results with the HF gun to dismiss it, and spraying is as much technique as it is equipment.
Yep! I used a turbine HVLP setup for years. One day HF had a conversion gun on sale for almost nothing. I thought what do I have to lose. Long story short, I bought their bigger gun. The turbine collects dust. I'm usually a HF basher, but their conversion guns are the exception. I should add...95% of my spraying is pre-cat lacquer.
I'm a great believer in luck. The harder I work, the more of it I seem to have.
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You have two really knowledgeable people responses above, so I'll just chip in with one advantage to the turbine unit - portable!
I have the HVLP guns and while in the shop that was fine, but when I needed to go to my daughter's house to paint her kitchen cabs, that wasn't an option. So I picked up the Earlex 5500 turbine system - small, light, portable and an excellent system for spraying shellac, lacquer, stains and alkyd paint (BM Advance). Probably more, but that's all I've used it on so far.
I don't know how good the Rockler is for $109, the Earlex is $300 on sale regularly.
I have no association with either product.
Joel
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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I have never used a turbine system but unless you need the portability I think you can get a better conversion gun for the same money as a turbine system. I started with the HF gun and it does a good job. If you go the HF route call CS and get larger needle and nozzle. It will make your life easier if spraying waterbourne clears. You want a better gun at a good price call Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing.
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If your compressor can output at least 4 CFM at 40 psi then you will get better results with a LVLP or HVLP conversion gun than you will with a turbine, especially if you compare them $ for $. The HF purple gun sprays shellac and other low viscosity finishes really well, great in fact. But with it's 1.4 mm needle/nozzle it can't spray most waterbornes efficiently. Getting into spraying can be incredibly confusing but you can cut through the chaff if you know the viscosities of the materials you want to spray and buy a gun with a needle/nozzle that goes with those viscosities. An even better approach was already mentioned - buy a couple of guns with different orifii or a gun with more than one needle/nozzle.
You don't need to go hog wild on cleaning and drying the air. I use nothing more than the filter/separator that came with the regulator on my compressor plus an in-line filter at the inlet of the gun. Never had a contamination problem. Of course, I live in the NE so I don't normally have to deal with really high humidity.
I recently bought a Qualspray gun from Homestead Finishing, an AM-6008PPS if I remember correctly. It comes with 3 needles/nozzles and a pressurized cup. It sprays everything from shellac to WB clearcoats to paint very, very well; don't know what more I could ask for. It wasn't cheap at $355, but I think it was a good value and it does spray far better than the HF level gun. But HF guns spray well enough to do good work if you match the needle/nozzle with the viscosity of what you want to spray. I can't emphasize that enough.
John
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LOML seems to prefer white paint for her preferred finish. In fact, I believe all I've ever sprayed with my HVLP unit is paint.
Woodcraft HVLP gun. Buy extra cups. Comes with a 1.4 needle, purchased a 2.0 needle additionally.
Buy good paint. NO LATEX! Get a measuring cup and add Floetrol and water to thin to correct consistency. Get a Ford #4 cup and know what you're dealing with.
Buy and use paint filters/funnels. Get a stand that will hold your gun and the filter/funnel.
Have heard good things about the HF purple gun. I'm sure the store brands from Woodcraft or Rockler would be fine. Utmost important to get the proper tips. If you're feeling extra special, put a swivel fitting on the air chuck. Fear No Corner !
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Paint most of the time is a whole 'nother animal. Maybe there are low viscosity solvent based ones, but I only use WB products and almost all of the ones I've looked at have a viscosity of more than 75 seconds #4 Ford cup. That means you need to use something like a 2.0 mm needle, or larger, or a pressure feed gun. That's exactly why I bought the Qualspray gun with the pressurized cup. I just sprayed GF's Enduro White Poly with it. It has a viscosity of about 100 seconds. I used a 1.3 mm needle/nozzle and it sprayed great without thinning. My gravity feed HVLP gun with a 1.8 mm needle wouldn't be able to spray it without substantial thinning. The HF gun with a 1.4 mm needle wouldn't have a prayer.
Know the viscosity of what you want to spray and buy a gun that can handle it. And don't trust the viscosity info. published by the finish manufacturer. Some products I've tested are really close to what's published, but many are different and usually higher. The GF Enduro White Poly is stated to be 60 - 70 seconds; I stopped measuring at 90 seconds.
John
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Thanks everyone for all the great feedback! I rarely visit HF, but it looks like I'll be going soon. Coincidently, I received an email coupon for the purple gun for $9.99 this afternoon. For that price, I might just get a bunch of them and not bother to clean them if I'm feeling lazy. Most of my brushes cost more than that.
I have no idea what the CFM output of my compressor is. The SCFM is rated at 12.0 @ 40psi. I googled to find the conversion...the formula is a whole lot more trouble than I want to go to. I'll just buy the gun and see if it works...I'm pretty sure it will.
I don't foresee using this for anything other than clear finishes. My upcoming project is a large 3-piece southwest cabinet that I want spray with shellac. The finish doesn't have to be perfect, as it will be the undercoating for milk paint (applied by hand) that will be distressed. Good project to try it out on, as I don't think I can screw it up.
Thanks again for your help.
Bob
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